culinary creations come from its indigenous communities, like the ancient zap p otecs. known as the waist of mexico, it s where the atlantic and pacific coast are closest. these days the proud guardians of zapotecan cuisine are the extraordinary and i m lucky enough to be invited to lunch. hola! hola. from a young age, mushas identify as a third gender, often displaying feminine attributes and wearing feminine clothes. if the food is as fabulous as