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In his 2010 book Role Models, John Waters dedicates an entire section to Rei Kawakubo, whom he deems the “genius fashion dictator”. For the last 20 years or so, the director’s own look has been “disaster at the dry cleaners” – meaning he likes his clothing to come a little off-kilter. Torn, crooked, ill-fitting, thread-bare. The kind of post-atomic irregularities which have come to define Kawakubo’s approach to fashion. “I was amazed at the gall and the wit of the Japanese clothing designs. Many pieces looked fresh out of the sale bin at the Purple Heart thrift shop in Baltimore,” Waters says of his first encounter with Comme at the brand’s store in New York back in the 70s. Safe to say he has been obsessed ever since. Later, Kawakubo recruited Waters to open her AW92 show in Paris, leaving the gobby director uncharacteristically tongue-tied. “Whatever courage I had managed to work up vanished instantly, but she gave me a severe pat of confidence and shoved me

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