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This canyon is starting to feel infinite. It’s been hours since I left the open desert of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, dropping from green prairie to red-walled valley to a shoulder-wide maze. Now sandstone surrounds me but for the narrow strip of blue Utah sky over my head, and  I seem to be burrowing further and further into the ground. With every boulder I hop over and narrow bend I shimmy through this trip feels more remote. It’s like I’ve entered a rocky portal to a world where I’m the only human left in all this desert vastness, even if I only left my car behind this morning. Steep canyon walls block out the rest of the world; I might as well be on Mars. It’s amazing that an experience like this is so accessible, not requiring technical canyoneering gear or experience. There’s a stillness between the sandstone walls that even the scrub-brush desert above can’t match, setting this trip apart from any other, and I’m determined to sink into every

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