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Crazy Horse is staring down four presidents of the United States. I ve boarded a battered yellow school bus that will bring tourists to the base of the mountain where the legendary Lakota leader is being carved in granite — a massive work in progress going on decades. The purpose of this monument is to honor all North American Indians, our otherwise jocular bus driver intones. We deboard, and I peer up at the carving, which is an active construction site. From here, the stark details of Crazy Horse s face are perfectly clear. At 70 feet high, that visage is much larger than any of the presidents on Mount Rushmore. The outlines of the future completed monument — his body, his flowing hair, his horse — are faintly discernible.

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