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Among the least essential jobs in a pandemic, along with newspaper columnist, is pastry chef. Which is why it was such a joy last weekend to attend high tea at one of Washington, D.C.’s fanciest hotels, and observe the happiness exhibited by a man named Claus, wearing a tall, white hat, as a roomful of diners under a tall, domed ceiling gorged themselves on his pastel-coloured macarons.
Macarons are not a food often prepared at home, and the likelihood of cooking them decreases further in a public-health crisis.
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