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>> anthony: while the sailing canoe the hokuela was a powerful spark for the hawaiian renaissance, this was what really set things off. beginning in 1941, and continuing into the 70's and beyond. the u.s. navy had been using the beautiful neighboring island of kahoolawe as a bombing range. you could feel the shockwaves as far away as maui and molokai. >> ritte: i'm proud of my hawaiian blood and nobody can tell me any different. >> anthony: people had never been happy about it, but emboldened by the times, and by recent events, a group of young activists decided to take a stand. in 1976 there ...

It the best. you introduce christianity to us we gonna do 'em the best. whatever you're gonna introduce to us, we're gonna do it the best! >> anthony: our christianity's better than yours, i love it. so, you've really disappointed me you have in no way lived up to your reputation as mean, unwelcoming, inward looking, hostile. admit it, it's a calculated strategy. >> hano-hano: yes. >> anthony: and i'll leave with a message. if you're watching this show i hope your heart is swelling with admiration. but bottom line, don't come here. >> group: yeah! ♪ ♪ ♪ bbles, it has long been called

Three stories. we don't have traffic. >> anthony: nice. walter naki is a skilled fisherman and today we're headed out for some octopus. >> walter: you know molokai's nickname right? it's called the friendly isle. >> anthony: yeah, but it's famously not the friendly island. it's supposed to be the most unfriendly island. i mean, that's what everybody says right? >> walter: depends on which way you look at it. traditionally we're very, very friendly. now, unfriendly is when you go try and come and fix it. >> anthony: right. >> walter: make it better. >> anthony: right. >> walter: or try to take ...

Hawaiian? this is the question, who is hawaiian? >> hano-hano: hawaiian is a nationality, brah, you can be hawaiian. >> anthony: really, come on don't shit me now. >> hano-hano: they made us, they made us state, they made us. hawaiian is our blood. >> anthony: i have to be born here. this isn't, come on, this is a different story. >> hano-hano: wait a minute. i can give you the best explanation. because you cannot be our blood, our blood is kanaka, you cannot be kanaka. hawaiian is our nationality and you can pledge to be that. you see this what we're standing on. our ina, it matters so much t...

There before and the layers and layers that have come since. it's a wonderful, tricky, conflicted, mutant hell broth. in what, for lack of a better word, you'd have to call paradise. >> paul: nowhere's paradise. paradises don't exist. paradise is, kind of, in your head. >> anthony: wait, wait a minute. you look out your window here and you look at those hills, those mountains, all that green, that blue sky, and gin clear sea. it, it sure looks like paradise to me. this guy knows, he's been everywhere. he's paul theroux. novelist, essayist, and legendary traveler and travel writer. of all the p...