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Pandemic drinking shows America's all-or-nothing attitude toward alcohol: binge or be sober

Alcohol has been a quiet, constant presence underlying the larger story of the pandemic,...

United-states , New-jersey , Massachusetts , Plymouth-rock , Boston , California , Virginia , Houston , Texas , San-antonio , San-francisco , Americans

Forget Franzia. Here's a truly great new boxed California wine, endorsed by our wine critic

Forget Franzia. Here's a truly great new boxed California wine, endorsed by our wine critic
Forget Franzia. Here's a truly great new boxed California wine, endorsed by our wine critic
The light red blend comes from Ryme Cellars, which was recently in the news for being Elizabeth Olsen's favorite winery
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Welcome to
Wine of the Week, a series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she highlighted a creamy, complex Aligote from Santa Barbara County.
Check for a
online every Wednesday.
Over the last few weeks, I’ve been working through a box of wine in my refrigerator. It’s been a joy. Turning the spigot on the bag-in-box makes me feel like I’m a college student again, pouring myself a cupful of Franzia at a house party — only this time, I have replaced the red Solo cup with real glassware, and the wine in my fridge is about one thousand times better than Franzia.

Italy , California , United-states , Italian , Megan-glaab , Ryan-glaab , Elizabeth-olsen , Ryme-cellar-sangiovese-friulano , Ryme-cellars , Sangiovese-friulano , Mason-trinca

Napa Valley's smallest farms have long been closed to tourists. A new law may change that

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Napa Valley's smallest farms have long been closed to tourists. A new law may change that
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Lindsay Hoopes and her son, Rohan Aghera 3, walk through the vines at Hoopes Vineyard in Napa.Jessica Christian / The ChronicleShow MoreShow Less
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A plaque in the garden area of Hoopes Vineyard in Napa.Jessica Christian / The ChronicleShow MoreShow Less
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The grounds and gardens of Hoopes Vineyard in Napa.Jessica Christian / The ChronicleShow MoreShow Less
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Horses, goats, chickens and other farm animals eat their breakfast at Hoopes Vineyard in Napa.Jessica Christian / The ChronicleShow MoreShow Less

Juan-puentes , Jessica-christian , Brad-wagenknecht , Lindsay-hoopes , Elise-nerlove-rutchick , Miriam-puentes , Elkhorn-peak-cellars , Family-farms , Napa-county , Family-farm , Peak-cellars

Wine wisdom suggests Aligote is boring. But this refreshing $18 California version is anything but

Wine wisdom suggests Aligote is boring. But this refreshing $18 California version is anything but
In the latest Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends winemaker Jim Clendenen's delicious Aligote
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Welcome to
Wine of the Week, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she highlighted a briny, oceanic Pinot Gris from Santa Cruz.
Check for a
online every Wednesday.
When people talk about white wines from Burgundy, it’s assumed that they’re talking about Chardonnay, the French region’s signature white grape variety. But there’s a second, lesser-known and lesser-grown white grape in Burgundy, called Aligote. It may be the wine world’s most beautiful afterthought.

Paris , France-general , France , French , Santa-maria , Alain-ducasse , Santa-barbara , Jim-clendenen , Ernest-vineyards-in-sonoma , Clendenen-family-vineyards , Santa-barbara-county , Erick-madrid

Steven Spurrier, the Brit who got California wines to be taken seriously, dies at 79

Steven Spurrier, the Brit who got California wines to be taken seriously, dies at 79
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Steven Spurrier in the Halls of Congress in 2016, on the 40th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris tasting.Lucy PopeShow MoreShow Less
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Steven Spurrier in the Halls of Congress in 2016, on the 40th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris tasting.Lucy PopeShow MoreShow Less
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Steven Spurrier, left, with French wine writer Michel Bettane in 2010.Saez VictorShow MoreShow Less
Steven Spurrier, who died Tuesday morning at age 79, was an unlikely champion for California wines. In 1976, the British wine merchant was running a shop in Paris that specialized in the great wines of France — Burgundy, Bordeaux — when he visited Napa Valley, at the time considered a podunk farming town.

Calistoga , California , United-states , Japan , India , Paris , France-general , France , United-kingdom , Italy , Canada , London

A new Bay Area brewery is making kimchi sours and other Korea-inspired beers

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A new Bay Area brewery is making kimchi sours and other Korea-inspired beers - and doing it well
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Youngwon Lee, owner of Dokkaebier, with one of his new beer creations at Del Cielo Brewing Co. in Martinez.DokkaebierShow MoreShow Less
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Youngwon Lee worked as a wine and spirits importer in Korea before getting into brewing.DokkaebierShow MoreShow Less
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Youngwon Lee makes his Dokkaebier beers at different Bay Area breweries including Del Cielo in Martinez.DokkaebierShow MoreShow Less
Youngwon Lee has brewed beers with Szechuan peppercorns, gochugaru chiles, omija berries and lemongrass. He’s made sour beer using the bacterial culture from kimchi. Lee’s latest experiment involved brewing with oyster sauce, though he ultimately had to dump it down the drain. “We used too much. It came out way too salty,” he says.

Berkeley , California , United-states , South-korea , Oakland , Guam , San-francisco , Korea , Youngwon-lee , Aaron-weshnak , Brewing-in-santa-cruz , Whole-foods

This $18 Pinot Gris is a jolt of the cool, briny Santa Cruz ocean air

This $18 Pinot Gris is a jolt of the cool, briny Santa Cruz ocean air
In the latest Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends a textured, racy, oceanic white wine
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Welcome to
Wine of the Week, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she highlighted a light, ethereal Grenache
.
online every Wednesday.
Maybe it was the seaweed on the label. Maybe it was the fact that the bottle was nearly ice-cold. Whatever it was, when I took a sip of the Assiduous Wines 2019 Pinot Gris, from Santa Cruz County, I felt jolted awake, invigorated, as if I’d suddenly been pounded by a current of cool, briny ocean air.

Italy , Friuli , Friuli-venezia-giulia , France , French , Italian , Los-gatos , Keegan-mayo , Leaf-community-market , Gus-community-market , Pinot-gris , Santa-cruz

Virgil's Sea Room permanently closes, the latest loss among S.F.'s endangered queer bars

Virgil's Sea Room permanently closes, the latest loss among S.F.'s endangered queer bars
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Lila Thirkield, owner of Virgil’s Sea Room, outside her previous bar, the Lexington Club.Scott Strazzante / The Chronicle 2015
The San Francisco queer bar Virgil’s Sea Room has permanently closed after eight years in business, the latest in a string of queer-bar closures in the city.
The reason for the closure was simple, said owner Lila Thirkield. At the beginning of the pandemic, she promised herself she’d call it quits if her personal financial losses related to the bar’s expenses crossed a certain threshold. “I kept hoping things would get better before we hit that number,” she said. “But I hit the number.”

Eagle-creek , California , United-states , San-francisco , Scott-strazzante , Erin-mcelroy , Lexington-club , Sea-room , Brant-ward , Virgil , Lila-thirkield , Jolene

This ethereal red shows why Grenache may be California's most climate change-resistant wine

This ethereal red shows why Grenache may be California's most climate change-resistant wine
In this Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends the Gravels Grenache from Newfound Wines
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Welcome to
Wine of the Week
, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she highlighted a Gruner Veltliner designed to pair with Asian cuisines
.
every Wednesday.
One could argue that the most interesting type of wine being made in California right now is Grenache. Whereas this grape variety was once synonymous with inky, full-throttle, high-alcohol wines, it’s now equally possible to find light, ethereal, delicate versions of the wine being made throughout the state.

California , United-states , Grand-canyon , Walnut-creek , Spain , Castro-valley , Audra-chapman , Matt-naumann , Placerville-el-dorado , Ken-nagahara , Newfound-wines

This is the rare Napa winery focused on wines that pair with Asian cuisines

This is the rare Napa winery focused on wines that pair with Asian cuisines
In the latest Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends a hyper-food-friendly California Gruner Veltliner
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Welcome to
Wine of the Week
, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she highlighted a radiant sparkling rosé
.
every Wednesday.
Napa Valley wineries love to tout their wine’s ability to pair well with food. But unless your diet consists mostly of steak, Napa Valley’s signature wine, Cabernet Sauvignon, is not actually very versatile at the table.

Vietnam , Republic-of , Austria , United-states , Thailand , Madras , Tamil-nadu , India , Thai , American , Austrian , Vietnamese