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That looks good. is that fried chicken? >> that's the fried chicken. >> the place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beets and coleslaw that's a nice, heavy base. >> tell me about the neighborhood. >> when i first came, it was rough, my friend. >> before '92, it was like white business district? residential district? >> back then, it used to be clean. used to be respected. >> once hillbrow was an elite whites only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow. ...

Smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beats and coleslaw that's a nice, heavy base. >> tell me about the neighborhood. >> when i first came, it was rough, my friend. >> before '92, it was like white business district? residential district? >> back then, it used to be clean. used to be respected. >> once hillbrow was an elite whites only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow. becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. hillbrow became aspirational. a ...

Because everybody's got something interesting to see as far as we're concerned. >> with food i knew food is a way to engage. you've got to put something in your mouth to get your ears open. ♪ >> across town, another pioneer of sorts. an urban settler in a very different neighborhood. this is hillbrow. a notoriously dangerous district. and this is dj lez. >> when i came here, i always dreamt of being a musician. i imagined myself singing in front of huge crowds, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. w...

Smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beats and coleslaw that's a nice, heavy base. >> tell me about the neighborhood. >> when i first came, it was rough, my friend. >> before '92, it was like white business district? residential district? >> back then, it used to be clean. used to be respected. >> once hillbrow was an elite whites only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow. becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. hillbrow became aspirational. a ...