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>> the place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plates with beets and coal slaw, it's a nice, heavy base. >> tell me about the neighborhood. >> when i first came, it was rough, my friend. >> before '92, it was like white business district? residential district? >> back then, it used to be clean. used to be respected. >> once hillbrow was an elite whites only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow. becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. ...

Smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beets and coleslaw that's a nice, heavy base. >> tell me about the neighborhood. >> when i first came, it was rough, my friend. >> before '92, it was like white business district? residential district? >> back then, it used to be clean. it used to be respected. >> once, hillbrow was an elite whites only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow. becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. hillbrow became aspirational...

And this is deejay lez. >> when i came here, i always dreamed of being a musician. i see myself singing in front of huge crowds, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. we meet in his favorite spot. sympathy's restaurant. what's good? what do you like? that looks good. is that fried chicken? >> that's the fried chicken. >> the place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beets and coal slaw, it's...

Smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beets and coal slaw that's a nice, heavy base. >> tell me about the neighborhood. >> when i first came, it was rough, my friend. >> before '92, it was like white business district? residential district? >> back then, it used to be clean. used to be respected. >> once hillbrow was an elite whites only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow. becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. hillbrow became aspirational. a...

Greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beats and coleslaw that's a nice, heavy base. >> tell me about the neighborhood. >> when i first came, it was rough, my friend. >> before '92, it was like white business district? residential district? >> back then, it used to be clean. used to be respected. >> once hillbrow was an elite whites only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow. becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. hillbrow became aspirational. a symbol of everything black africa...