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Is sustainable fish a scam, like Netflix documentary 'Seaspiracy' suggests?


Is sustainable fish a scam, like Netflix documentary 'Seaspiracy' suggests?
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Trout fishing on Opening Day at Lake Merced, May 13, 1952Photographer Unknown / The Chronicle
Last week, I spread the good word about Sea Forager, a community-supported fisheries company that has been a balm for me the past year. Besides the high quality of the fish and seafood it delivers, a major part of why I love it is because I know where every fillet comes from, who catches it, and how they do it. After reading that newsletter and watching the Netflix documentary, “Seaspiracy,” a reader came to me with some legitimate concerns about the ethics of eating fish at all. Here’s the question:

Germany , Norway , Berkeley , California , United-states , Japan , Monterey-bay-aquarium , Thailand , Oakland , Palo-alto , Stemple-creek , Susanville

Oakland's Sobre Mesa is a dining paradise fit for a new 'Top Chef' player


Oakland's Sobre Mesa is a dining paradise fit for a new 'Top Chef' player
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Nelson German, chef-owner of Sobre Mesa, in his Oakland restaurant.Stephen Lam / The ChronicleShow MoreShow Less
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Red stew chicken wings with duck fat at Sobre Mesa in Oakland.Stephen Lam / The ChronicleShow MoreShow Less
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Sadé Stamps, bar manager at Sobre Mesa in Oakland, greets a customer on the parklet.Stephen Lam / The ChronicleShow MoreShow Less
To look inside Oakland’s Sobre Mesa is like peeking into a time capsule: to catch a glimpse of an aesthetic optimism that is hard to find in the restaurant world of today, when dolling up the dining room is generally low on the long list of pandemic-era priorities. Its interior is lush with tropical greenery and lit with vivacious pink and green lighting; just from a glance, it’s easy to imagine how it must feel to sink into one of the tall, upholstered booths as the rum starts to hit you.

Germany , United-states , Nigeria , Oakland , California , Oeste , Sachsen-anhalt , Hawaii , San-francisco , Nigerian , Hawaiian , Californian

An ode to Minnie Bell's gooey mac and cheese, the best in the Bay Area


An ode to Minnie Bell's gooey mac and cheese, the best in the Bay Area
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The macaroni and cheese from Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement in Emeryville.Soleil Ho / The Chronicle
Before Minnie Bell’s, my understanding of great macaroni and cheese — a version of the classic American noodle dish that could stand alone on its own merits — was mostly an abstraction.
It included snatches of sensation from other experiences that were pretty good, but missed something elusive that kept them from fulfilling the ramped-up Platonic ideal I’d kept in my head: They were moist but grainy; well-seasoned but dry; full of high-quality ingredients but soupy. Often, the experiences echoed the nightmarish disconnect between the steamy, oozing strands of cheese in the Stouffer’s commercials and the real thing wrapped in plastic that I still remember from childhood.

Emeryville , California , United-states , Oakland , San-francisco , Lea-suzuki , Minnie-bell , Fernay-mcpherson , Minnie-bell-soul-movement-in-emeryville , Supper-club , Soul-movement , Emeryville-public-market

Some cautious optimism amid indoor dining's return in the Bay Area


Some cautious optimism amid indoor dining's return in the Bay Area
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Daniel Morales serves meals to a table of diners at La Mar on Friday, Nov. 13, 2020, in San Francisco.Santiago Mejia / The Chronicle
Last week, San Francisco officials announced that indoor dining at 25% capacity would likely return as the county descends into the “red tier” of the state’s reopening plan: possibly as soon as this coming Wednesday, March 3. That is, if coronavirus infection rates don’t rise before then. (Read Janelle Bitker’s full report.) San Mateo and Marin counties have already permitted indoor dining.
The thought of eating indoors still fills me with dread, but maybe a tiny bit less dread than last time. I am terrified of allowing myself to feel positive about the pandemic, especially considering that our country recently exceeded half a million COVID deaths. Those are lives that we’ll never get back. But I feel optimistic that this move to the red tier isn’t just some illusory performance of progress on the part of our elected officials. (Though they absolutely deserve criticism for the vaccine’s rockyinitial rollout, which had both food workers, Muni drivers and other vulnerable populations like the disability community scrambling to figure out where they fit into the plan.)

Berkeley , California , United-states , Japan , Nigeria , Richmond-district , Armenia , Healdsburg , Greece , San-francisco , Nigerian , Armenian

Jams, jellies and hot sauces capture the moment better than words can


Jams, jellies and hot sauces capture the moment better than words can
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Peach preserves, made by Shakirah Simley in her San Francisco apartment on August 8, 2020. Simley prefers a mix of just ripe and slightly underripe fruit for a mix of sweet and acid. She always tastes the fruit once at home. “You want the best fruit because you can’t put lipstick on a pig,” Simley says.Celeste Noche / Special to The Chronicle
A few weeks ago, I found myself staring into my fridge, my mind prickling like one who has become suddenly lucid after a fugue state: I suddenly realized that I have accumulated way more homemade jams and jellies than a person should normally have. I have so many friends and acquaintances who are prolific jammers, who have the skill and knowhow to transform backyard passionfruits and farmers’ market peaches into the most gorgeous, shimmering material — to arrest their sweetness at the peak of ripeness. How could I not take a jar or two and slip a fingertip into each to sneak a taste of last summer’s growing season?

Japan , Oakland , California , United-states , Marina-district , Vietnam , Republic-of , Laos , South-africa , Cape-town , Western-cape , Peru

Bay Area's fine dining scene is still alive as takeout - if you can tweezer your own salad


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Bay Area's fine dining scene is still alive as takeout - if you can tweezer your own salad
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Alex K. Fong / The Chronicle
On a recent weeknight, I squinted at my phone while making a salad — well, to be specific, a salad course delivered from San Francisco’s avante-garde restaurant Merchant Roots. The components arrived with a video of the chef, and mimicking his movements, I used tweezers to carefully place lettuce leaves and sliced English peas into an edible facsimile of a flower pot. The result: an explosion of greenery meant to evoke an overgrown spring garden — art as food, the way Merchant Roots might serve it in its typical multicourse tasting.

Mexico , North-point , California , United-states , Japan , Palo-alto , China , Sacramento , Russia , France , San-francisco , Russian

For the year of the ox, Bay Area's food community is grounding itself


For the year of the ox, Bay Area's food community is grounding itself
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Water buffalo, whose milk is used to make Italian style mozzarella di bufala, at the Ramini facility in Tomales. The buffalo have rock star names like Pat Benetar, Van Morrison, and Chris Isaac.Jason Henry / Special To The Chronicle 2015
We’re entering this new phase in the lunar calendar, which has come along with a palpable period of mental and physical fatigue among a lot of people I know. The year of the rat has left many with feelings of cynicism, exhaustion and grief, and rightfully so, considering everything that we’ve endured until now. But I’m finding comfort in knowing that we’re entering the year of the ox — or in the Vietnamese version of the zodiac, the water buffalo. The buffalo’s steadiness and determination are grounding forces: antipodes to the chaos and instability of the previous year.

China , Beijing , United-states , Oakland , California , San-francisco , American , Joe-weaver , Rahanna-bisseret-martinez , Jessica-christian , Erin-wilkins , Jeffrey-fang

People donated $100K-plus to a DoorDash driver. Why did it take a child abduction to support this gig worker?


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People donated $100K-plus to a DoorDash driver. Why did it take a child abduction to support this gig worker?
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Jeffrey Fang poses for a portrait on the City College campus in San Francisco.Michael Short / Special to The Chronicle 2013Show MoreShow Less
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California Highway Patrol issued an Amber Alert for two children, Sean Fang, age 1 (left) and Winnifred Fang, age 4 (right) who were abducted in a San Francisco carjacking Saturday night.California Highway PatrolShow MoreShow Less
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California Highway Patrol issued an Amber Alert for two children, Winnifred Fang, age 4 and Sean Fang, age 1, who were abducted in a San Francisco carjacking Saturday night.California Highway Patrol / California Highway PatrolShow MoreShow Less

China , Thailand , Coted-ivoire , San-francisco , California , United-states , Ivory-coast , Martin-luther-king-jr , Paul-chinn , Gleyson-coelho , Yalondam-james , Cherri-murphy

A good breakfast taco is a rare bird in San Francisco, but this pop-up nails them


A good breakfast taco is a rare bird in San Francisco, but this pop-up nails them
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LoJo's Tacos is a breakfast taco pop-up at Avedano's Meats in Bernal Heights.Loren Johnson
In “The Austin Cookbook,” author Paula Forbes writes that the breakfast taco, being one of the city’s highest art forms, is both deceptively simple and tricky to master. “Every element must be on point,” she writes: Tortillas must be fresh; salsa, scalding; and the other components, layered thoughtfully. That said, I think she and I would both agree that LoJo’s Tacos, a breakfast taco pop-up in Bernal Heights, nails it.

China , Oakland , California , United-states , Pacifica , San-francisco , Chinese , Liz-spenger , Celeste-noche , Angela-wilson , Momo-chang , Bon-appetit

The best way to enjoy the Bay Area's food pop-ups is to embrace chaos


The best way to enjoy the Bay Area's food pop-ups is to embrace chaos
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Chefs Ryan Stagg (left) next to his fiancee Danielle Banchero (right) as they load cinnamon rolls for a customer seen at his pop-up bakery out of their home on Tuesday, May 5, 2020, in San Francisco, Calif.Liz Hafalia / The Chronicle
When you go to as many pop-ups as I do, you quickly come to realize that enjoying them means throwing yourself through endless hoops, all in the name of finally getting to buy a thing. You swim into the riptide of minute-long ordering windows and contact chefs via Google forms and direct messages. Then you hope you’re waiting in the right line in some random place, dropping everything in order to pick something up when someone else tells you to. You embrace chaos.

Berlin , Germany , Potrero-hill , California , United-states , Taiwan , Japan , Oakland , San-francisco , Yilan , Yilan-xian , Japanese