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Which tends to use much more heat, much more chili peppers, from the cuisine of the coast, which is rich with seafood, of course, and a very sophisticated, very urbane cuisine. >> i guess the first question would be, in your lifetime, will will you be able to visit yafa? [ speaking foreign language ] >> she says she hopes she can. she also hopes she can go to jerusalem as well. so she's optimistic. [ speaking foreign language ] she's saying -- first she said you're not allowing us to. then corrected and said the israelis aren't allowing us. >> go, go.

Outside the faith with no particular attachment or loyalty to israel doesn't mean that plenty of people on this earth don't hate me in principle. i know that. but the state of israel, i never really knew what to think. first look around, it's like everybody says -- it's pretty. it's awesome. it's urban. sophisticated. hip. like southern california. only nicer. then you see the young draftees in the streets and you start to get the idea. this is jerusalem. >> i'm taking you through damascus gate, which is one of the gates to the old city. these walls are pretty ancient. people say that the deep...

They built up the wall. so the top bed is the newest bit. >> and by newest you mean -- >> up to about the ottoman time. the turks left here about 150 years ago. and the brits came and they conquered us. i wasn't here. >> born here, now cooking in london, yotan yotelangy is widely known, respected chef and co author of the book "jerusalem." >> basically, this city was divided into two until 1967 when there was the famous six-day war. >> yep. >> and the hall that we're traveling in now, walking in is east jerusalem. it's the palestinian part. that was up until '67 belonged to jordan.

Israeli-palestinian border. the wall now stretches 450 miles. when completed, it will span 700 miles. 85% of it in palestinian territory. on one hand, there's no doubt that the number of suicide bombings fell drastically. on the other, there's this. you cross from jerusalem into the west bank. also called judea, sumaria, also called palestine. since 1967, half a million settlers have moved here, all in contravention of international law. many in contravention of israeli law. though in effect, it seems to make little difference. they're here and in ever-larger numbers. this is one of our driver...

Sophisticated, very urbane cuisine. >> i guess the first question would be, in your lifetime, will will you be able to visit yafa? [ speaking foreign language ]. >> she says she hopes she can. she also hopes she can go to jerusalem as well. so she's optimistic. [ speaking foreign language ]. she's saying -- first she said you're not allowing us to. then corrected and said the israelis aren't allowing us. >> go, go. [ speaking foreign language ]. >> this is a normal tone of voice. not upset, by the way. this is how we talk. we yell. >> what's he saying? >> give me a permit. if they allow, of co...