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Their own distinct cuisine. that's very different from the cuisine of the city, gaza city, which tends to use much more heat, much more chili peppers, from the cuisine of the coast, which is rich with seafood, of course, and a very sophisticated, very urbane cuisine. >> i guess the first question would be, in your lifetime, will you be able to visit yahba? [ speaking foreign language ]. >> she says she hopes she can. she also hopes she can go to jerusalem as well. so she's optimistic. [ speaking foreign language ]. she's saying -- first she said you're not allowing us to. then corrected and sa...

But the track here, such as it is, has its drawbacks. it's basically a parking lot across from the detention center. what do they think about this next door? do they ever give you problems? >> this is an israeli jail. one time we were here with speed sisters and there was problems because of the prisoners. so i just stopped my car over there and i was walking. i wanted to see what's going on. and the israeli soldiers, they came running at me and they start shooting at me. and i got shot in the back. it was tear gas. >> the canister hit you? >> yeah. so my speed sisters, they took me to the hos...

He becomes more famous than arafat and everybody else. this is another image of these times. ♪ >> you can almost believe for a minute or two that some kind of peace, some kind of reconciliation, meeting of the minds, sanity is possible after you visit majda. it's a restaurant in what looks like an idyllic village in the judean hills. about 20 minutes from jerusalem. it feels like an alternate universe for a number of reasons. one of these women is jewish. one is muslim, from a nearby village. they're partners, co-owners of majda, and also married.

As history progressed, they built up the wall. so the top bed is the newest. >> and by newest you mean -- >> up to about the ottoman time. the turks left here about 150 years ago. and the brits came and they conquered us. >> i wasn't here. >> born here, now cooking in london, he is the widely known respected chef and co-author of the book "jerusalem." >> basically, this city was divided into two until 1967 when there was the famous six-day war. >> yep. >> and the hall that we're traveling in now, walking in is east jerusalem. it's the palestinian part. that was up until '67 belonged to jordan....

You cross from jerusalem into the west bank. also called judea, sumaria, also called palestine. since 1967, half a million settlers have moved here, all in contravention of international law. many in contravention of israeli law. though it seems to make little difference. they're here and in ever-larger numbers. this is one of our drivers from tel aviv who i asked about the graffiti on this house near the settlements. so what is price tagging? >> something happens in a settlement or some attack with jews, kids from the settlement would come and have a price tag for every activity. so they come...