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Going to understand a place, love it the way it deserves to be loved, maybe you have to live there. bill buford did just that and made lyon his home. today he's taking me somewhere only someone from the home team could be expected to know about. >> bill: it's a beautiful day. the sky is blue, we're feeling the seasons changing. and we're about to go in a dark room, and you eat a very lyonnais menu and you drink a vast quantity of lyonnais wine. >> anthony: and what sinister bodies will be in there? >> bill: the only kind of people who would do this kind of thing on a bright pretty day. it's a ...

♪ [ man singing in chinese ] >> anthony: almost everywhere i've been it seems there is a terrifyingly powerful yet much-loved alcoholic beverage at the very center of the culture. one whose consumption is rigorously observed in ritual and tradition. whether it's some sinister moonshine in a 55-gallon drum in africa or a distilled spirit in the jungles of borneo, the mountains of the caucuses, or a more refined concoction as here, you must drink it. ladies and gentlemen, i give you baijiu. baijiu has been around for a very long time and the shui jing fang distillery has been making

>> bill: it's a very lyonnais thing. societies -- some secret, all of them sort of like special memberships. there must be like 50 of these things that i know about. you're a member if you're invited to be a member. and remain a member for the rest of your life. >> anthony: the food is invariably, deliciously dinosauric. and heavy, yet always glorious classics like blanquette de veau, the slow, slowly stewed neck and shoulder pieces of veal, with mushrooms, served over rice. hunks of bread, and wine -- local beaujolais, of course, and lots of it. sante. >> all: sante. >> man in stripes: no wom...

Own immune system, thanks to medicine that didn't exist until now. and today can save your life. ♪ ♪ ♪ [ man singing in chinese ] >> anthony: almost everywhere i've been it seems there is a terrifyingly powerful yet much-loved alcoholic beverage at the very center of the culture.

Hunks of bread, and wine -- local beaujolais, of course, and lots of it. sante. >> all: sante. >> man in stripes: no woman. no politics. no religion. >> frenchman: and it works. and for 50 years. >> frenchman: yes! >> anthony: do women have machon, their own organizations? >> frenchman: yes. >> anthony: there are. so somewhere in the other side of town, there are a lot of women sitting around, drinking wine, eating blanquette, and bitching about the men. [ singing in french ] >> anthony: and then there will be, yes, singing. and no doubt the telling of lusty jokes followed by serious official ...