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Because all of this is a world away from surfing's origins. riding waves was once a sacred practice. in ancient hawaii it was a way for men and women to praise the ocean gods. surfing struggled through colonisation, but by the 1920s the so—called king of surfing, duke kahanamoku, was spreading his love of the surf abroad. even the future king edward tried it out on a visit to hawaii. it took off around the world, including here in the uk. in the 19505 the wooden boards of the hawaiians gave way to modern materials. reporter: blocks of stiff i polyurethane foam, and over a layer of fibreglass...

Riding waves was once a sacred crack this. in ancient hawaii it was a way for man and women to praise the ocean gods. surfing struggled through colonisation, but by the 1920s the so—called king of surfing was spreading his love of the surf abroad. even the future king edward tried it out on a visit to hawaii. it took off around the world, including here in the uk. in the 1950s the wooden boards of the hawaiians gave way to modern materials. hawaiians gave way to modern materials-— materials. blocks of stiff polyurethane _ materials. blocks of stiff polyurethane phone, - materials. blocks o...

On my board and i will do it better this time, try and be sustainable and green, and see what i can find out. because all of this is a world away from surfing's origins. riding waves was once a sacred practice. in ancient hawaii it was a way for men and women to praise the ocean gods. surfing struggled through colonisation, but by the 1920s the so—called king of surfing, duke kahanamoku, was spreading his love of the surf abroad. even the future king edward tried it out on a visit to hawaii. it took off around the world, including here in the uk. in the 19505 the wooden boards of the hawaiia...

An oscar for directing. >> your father's been wounded. >> the '90s was the best time for women directors. they infused a kind of sensibility that made it really enjoyable. you were hanging out with other filmmakers, saying wow, how many movies can i make? how many women can i work with? >> you still haven't figured out what riding waves is all about, have you? it's a state of mind. >> they don't want to be acknowledged as a female director. i fought my whole career to be acknowledged as a filmmaker, not a black filmmaker. i'm sure a lot of them women are saying, don't call me a female director...

That jane pulled us into as an audience. she has a voice not to be denied. >> it's my mother's channel. >> it's an extraordinary performance in the film. and also holly is a very accomplished pianist. it's one of those perfect roles for the perfect actor. this movie established jane campion. she won the palm door at cannes and became the second woman to be nominated for an oscar for directing. >> your father's been -- >> the '90s was the best time for women directors. they infused a kind of a sensibility that made it really enjoyable. you were hanging out with other filmmakers saying wow, how ...