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Surf History: A Look at the First Wave Riders in Prominent Surfing Nations

In every country that’s been surfed, there’s been a first surfer. Someone who's sprung to their feet on a board, and propelled to shore for the very first time.

Hawaii , United-states , To-bali , Kepulauan-bangka-belitung , Indonesia , Biarritz , Aquitaine , France , Australia , California , North-sea , Oceans-general-

9 Unique Gift Ideas for the Hawaiʻi Traveler on Your List

Got someone on your list who loves to travel—and loves traveling to Hawaiʻi? (Or maybe that’s you!) Here are nine gifts—from aloha-inspired luggage to

Hawaii , United-states , Kealia , Honolulu , Kukui , Cook-islands , Hawaiian , Tuahine-kipe , Katrina-valcourt , Kia-orana , Reyn-spooner , Ama-olukai-foundation

The 10 Best California Books of 2023

These new works of fiction and nonfiction vividly render the state’s past and present.

San-francisco , California , United-states , Ferry-building , New-york , Texas , Vietnam , Republic-of , Oakland , Emeryville , Death-valley , China

Gerry Lopez | The Inertia

The original Pipeline Master and Founder of Lightning Bolt Surfboards, Gerry Lopez is an icon and pioneer in the history of surfing. Lopez was among the first to surf "G-Land," and starred as himself in the surf-cult classic film Big Wednesday. Gerry lives with his family in Bend, Oregon where he shapes surfboards, practices yoga, and snowboards regularly.

Oregon , United-states , Gerry-lopez , Pipeline-master , Lightning-bolt-surfboards , Patagonia , Aloha-shirt , The-aloha-shirt , Aloha , Hawaii , The-history-of-aloha-shirt

Matt Warshaw | The Inertia

Matt Warshaw is a San Francisco-based writer, and the former editor of SURFER Magazine. His books include Maverick’s, the Encyclopedia of Surfing, and the recently published History of Surfing. His work has also appeared in the New York Times, Outside, and the Wall Street Journal.

New-york , United-states , Matt-warshaw , New-york-times , San-francisco-based , Wall-street , Pipeline , Wsl , North-shore , Kelly-slater , Volcom-pipe-pro , North-shore-oahu

Examining the History of Surf Contests

Examining the History of Surf Contests
theinertia.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from theinertia.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.

Hawaiian-islands , Hawaii , United-states , Hawaiian , Filipe-toledo , Rabbit-kekai , Sam-george , Ka-kupepa-kuakoa , Carissa-moore , Kelly-slater , Stephanie-gilmore , John-florence

Class Is In Session: Examining the Evolution of Surf Schools

Surf instruction can be traced back to surfing's original roots but surf schools are a much more modern iteration. We look at the evolution of the surf school.

United-states , United-kingdom , Boynton-beach , Florida , California , Peru , Lima , Cowell-beach , Hawaii , Hawaiian , American , British

The Fish Shape, Its Unorthodox History, and What It's Meant to Surfing

The Fish Shape, Its Unorthodox History, and What It's Meant to Surfing
theinertia.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from theinertia.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.

Australia , San-diego , California , United-states , Sunset-cliffs , Ocean-beach , New-south-wales , Hawaii , Huntington-beach , Orange-county , Australian , Hawaiian

The Confused History of Estimating Wave Height

Community
It doesn’t necessarily get any easier to tell the height of a wave from the water. Photo: Brent Storm//Unsplash
Editor’s Note:
Welcome to Surf History 101, where we look at innovations in the world of surfing and beyond that changed the pursuit forever. In this edition, Sam George examines the history of measuring waves and how it’s shaped the pursuit.
What Is It
The decades-long custom of ignoring actual wave height, choosing instead to declaratively assert an estimate – the assigned figure having been reached in a completely arbitrary manner.
Who Developed It
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During the recent Margaret River Pro, held at that venerable Western Australian reef break, a classic example of estimating wave height was on display, the result, no doubt, very confusing to those surf fans new to the game. Early rounds were held in heavy, blustery, Indian Ocean swells that two-time world champion Gabriel Medina from Brazil called the biggest he’d ever surfed in world tour competition — big Pipeline, Cloudbreak and Teahupoo included. World tour rookie Seth Moniz from Hawaii called it five feet. Now, taking for granted that neither of these world-class surfers is particularly faint hearted, you can imagine how difficult it would be explaining to a newcomer how one surfer could estimate the wave heights at 15 to 18 feet — maybe even bigger on cleanup sets — and the other claim the waves to be a modest five feet. Suffice it to say that virtually all surfers can agree that uncrowded waves are best, yet none, it seems, can agree on how to measure the height of those waves.

Sunset-beach , California , United-states , Australia , Margaret-river , Western-australia , Outer-reef , Queensland , Hawaii , Brazil , Australian , Californian

My Wave: A History of Surf Localism

My Wave: A History of Surf Localism
theinertia.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from theinertia.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.

United-states , Lunada-bay , California , Woodland-hills , San-diego , San-fernando-valley , San-onofre , Santa-monica , Oregon , Sunset-cliffs , Hollywood-by-the-sea , Hawaii