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It's an organized place with so many pavilions covering a vast area and really influencing the types of foods that would be eaten just across the street at the trattorias of the late 19th and early 20th century. >> in butchery the animal is quartered, and those cuts went straight to the upper and middle class kitchens. everything that's leftover, the blood, brains and intestines was called the quinto quarto, the fifth quarter. and those were left to the poor. some workers were even paid in offal instead of money, so they had little choice but to make the best of it. one restaurant keeping thes...

Nowhere more so than centocelle. i'm meeting masimiliano, who is the editor of italy's most prestigious food journal, to find out what's going on. gentrification is moving in on this neighborhood, and food is on the front line. >> the neighborhood was born during roman empire. centocelle's roman name, it's 100 jails in english. >> 100 jails? >> jails, yeah, exactly. >> there may never have actually been 100 jails here, but what this area does have is three new subway stations all in close proximity. >> this thing changed the game. a lot of people came here to try to invest a bit. >> yeah. is t...