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This is the iconic dish of punjab. >> navroop: yes. that's the specialty here. >> anthony: kulcha. a perfect, little flavor bomb of wheat dough pressed against the side of a very, very hot clay oven, slathered with butter, and served with a spicy chole, a chickpea curry on the side. did i mention the butter? >> navroop: how is it? >> anthony: mmm! >> navroop: nice? >> anthony: delicious! everyone in amritsar seems to be an expert on kulcha, including this lady, navroop. >> navroop: it's a chutney, and this is all radish. >> anthony: very, very, very good. generally speaking, punjabis are famou...

>> anthony: kulcha. a perfect, little flavor-bomb of wheat dough pressed against the side of a very, very hot clay oven, slathered with butter, and served with a spicy chole, a chickpea curry on the side. did i mention the butter? >> navroop: how is it? >> anthony: mmm! >> navroop: nice? >> anthony: delicious! everyone in amritsar seems to be an expert on kulcha, including this lady, navroop. >> navroop: it's a chutney, and this is all radish. >> anthony: very, very, very good. generally speaking, punjabis are famous for being a warrior class, taller, bigger. >> navroop: yes, they're big. >> a...

>> everyone seems to be an expert on kulcha, including this lady. >> this is our radish. >> very, very, very good. generally speaking, punjabis are famous for being a warrior class. taller, bigger. >> yes. they're big. >> still maybe not fighters so much but still eaters. >> oh, yeah. big time, yes. the religion doesn't matter. food is religion here. ♪ >> first time in amritsar? >> checking off my list of things to do in the punjab, i got to score some animal protein. it's time. i've been going all morrisey for

Driving them. how bad is it? is humpty dumpty falling off the wall or has fallen the wall? >> there are clearly cracks and clearly strains and are starting to show. we have been at war for 17 years. the military has been at war, i don't know if the country feels that it's been at war. less than 1% of the population which makes the military, all volunteers, a guard, professional warrior class has been at it for years. leland: the equipment has been at it for years too. >> longer than many of them have been alive. the cracks are starting to show, mishaps, maybe not they're not directly related t...

A perfect, little flavor-bomb of wheat dough pressed against the side of a very, very hot clay oven, slathered with butter, and served with a spicy chole, a chickpea curry on the side. did i mention the butter? >> navroop: how is it? >> anthony: mmm! >> navroop: nice? >> anthony: delicious! everyone in amritsar seems to be an expert on kulcha, including this lady, navroop. >> navroop: it's a chutney, and this is all radish. >> anthony: very, very, very good. generally speaking, punjabis are famous for being a warrior class, taller, bigger. >> navroop: yes, they're big. >> anthony: still, maybe...