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I’ve had my problems with Impossible Foods’ artificial beef. I first tasted it in a burger in 2017, when it appeared temporarily at select bistros around town. The texture was good, but the bright pink center — the result of synthetic hemoglobin — struck me as creepy, and the flavor was almost like beef, but not quite, which proved equally as distressing. In subsequent years, beef substitutes seem to have improved, or maybe cooks learned to put them into more suitable contexts.
When the White Castle Impossible slider came along, it was just as tasty as the chain’s regular burger; in fact, the fake meat was indistinguishable in its oniony grayness from the original. And more recently, the gloppy vegetarian burger at Pop’s Eat-Rite proved that the greasier and more lush the setting, the easier it is to camouflage the patty’s negative aspects. Pop’s cloaked it in sauteed onions and bright yellow American cheese, something like a Shake Shack burger. And now Impossible and its ilk are found nearly everywhere, including small kebaberies, big burger chains, and pizzerias.

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