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Ventre de thon or tuna belly with tomato carpaccio. pigeon, roasted and then flambéed served with a tureen or pate of the same bird. >> anthony: on this side of the border are the chef's as creative or more traditional? >> marielle: they're more influenced by the french cuisine which is more complex. on the other side we simplify, here it is a little bit more complex. ♪ >> anthony: why is the food so good? >> marielle: because we like eating, that's the main point. why are we going to use things which are in the freezer, you're going to try to do it always fresh very simple but with very go...

Formed what later became known as the gang of 12. committing themselves to both modernizing and protecting the culinary traditions of their culture. juan marie arzak was at the forefront of that effort. his daughter elena continues to honor that commitment and that responsibility. >> anthony: the food is innovative, wildly creative forward thinking but always, always, basque. marinated prawns on lemongrass and mint with beetroot and crunchy krill. >> elena: for us, very good, it's the essence of the sea, you will see. >> anthony: mhmm oh man. >> anthony: roast pigeon with masstick and potato. ...

>> lourdes: i don't think it's exclusively from here, i think this is something that comes from franco years. >> anthony: where's franco buried by the way? >> aitor: in madrid. valle de los caidos. >> antonio: in valle de los caidos. >> anthony: big gravestone? or did they sort of just roll him into a ditch? >> aitor: it's a huge place >> anthony: if you were -- i'm not suggesting you do this, but if you were to visit franco's grave, unzip and take a piss on it would you be arrested? >> lourdes: yeah. >> aitor: no, you would be on the news all around the world. >> anthony: would that make you ...

By the shell. >> anthony: that's delicious. very, very good, i love these. >> edorta: salud! >> anthony: salud! >> irati: and thank you for coming! >> anthony: how long do you think the basque people lived in this community? does anybody know? >> edorta: 25,000 years we are living here. >> anthony: so you're talking like cro-magnon. >> irati: yes. >> anthony: all the way back. >> irati: all the way back. >> anthony: and the language? from here? >> irati: we really don't know. it is the only language in europe that we know of that doesn't have anything to do with the rest of the languages, that...

No you're right that place." it's so perfect. >> anthony: my lunch companion is my old friend virginia irizar, with her father she runs the "escuela de cocina de luis irizar." her father being luis irizar of the original group of 12 and the man who first showed me, well everything in san sebastian. >> anthony: your dads first job out here was at the maria christina, is that true he started there? >> virginia: sixteen years old. his first duty was to keep the white wine ice cold for the chef, otherwise he was in trouble. >> anthony: that's understandable. so what did they do that was different?...