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I ve got a soft spot for restaurants that opened mid-pandemic, particularly those run by Asian Americans who, as we all know, have been the target of racist hate, thanks in no small part to the garbage spewed by the former man-baby in chief. Mei s Kitchen, a Taiwanese restaurant in East Orlando, opened in the not-so-merry month of May to very little fanfare, but those who visited for takeout, or ate inside the dining room when it opened back up to the public, knew they had stumbled onto a true find.
That dining room, by the way, underwent a thorough de-Orientalizing from its former days as Pu Yi Chinese restaurant. It now possesses the characteristic characterless modernity of today s average restaurant, but the dishes are classics through and through. And through the pass-through window, I threw a glance at chef-owner Mei Feng Wang patrolling her spacious kitchen, readying a lunch order as I placed mine at the counter. The friendly lass behind the register suggested the sal