Currency and identity. Its one of the most densely packed cities on the planet, its got more skyscrapers than anywhere else on earth and its a Fusion Of Cantonese Culture with a colonial past. Sojoin me as i explore this unique mix of east and west where. I put my Dumpling Making Skills to the test. She laughs 0k, well, not bad. Yeah . Learn more about the visual identity of the city. And meet the conservationist putting hong kong back in touch with its rural roots. Came out of nowhere and they kind of sound like ducks. Who knew . Horn blares. Now, this is the way to arrive into hong kong. Im on the star ferry, which goes from kowloon all the way into the heart of Hong Kong Island. And it costs about four hong kong dollars, which is about 50 us cents, so i think its fair to say this is probably one of the best value cruises in the world. Youll find hong kong off the Southern Coast of mainland china, and its made up of around 250 other islands. Here on the main island, space is tight and driving can be tough, so around 90 ofjourneys here are made using public transport. And one of the most iconic ways of getting around are these, the famous hong kong trams, that were first introduced by the british back in the early 1900s. Im on my way to meet a driver, also known as a motorman, whos going to tell me a little bit more about this classic way of getting around Hong Kong Island. Hello 0h, morning. Morning. Wow, look at this 0k. Woohoo bing, bing so how long have you been driving this tram around hong kong . 18 years. So youre the expert . Maybe every day is learning. What can you tell me about this tram, because it looks pretty old and rickety . So it sounds to me like youre a bit of a hong kong icon. This is a proper, old, rickety tram look at this. Its made of wood its made of wood. I mean, this has got to be one of the best ways to explore hong kong, right . Especially from the best seat in the house. The network is the Worlds Largest double deck tram fleet still in operation, carrying an average of 200,000 passengers every day. And its notjust for tourists. Locals use them daily and affectionately call them ding dings. Bell dings. These trams are definitely part of the fabric of the city. Plus, theyre a great place to take some snaps from. Local photographer Irene Flanhardt has taken thousands of pictures of the iconic trams. Welcome to hong kong. Thank you. I can see youre shooting your favourite subject. Yes. What is it about trams that really catches your attention . Well, i love trams. I like to capture the activities in a 24 hour cycle. Cleaning, maintenance and repair, Safety Checks all these activities are conducted there every day. The trams are such an important part of the landscape here in hong kong. Theyre really part of the soul of this place. Its very dear to hong kong people. Its like an old friend. So this is the spot . Yeah. This is a very good location to shoot. If youre lucky, we may have three trams in one photo. 0h. So the timing is very important. Ive only got my iphone, so ill do my best. Yeah. Oh, i think i got a bus. And then you get another one, you get three trams. Ah. Thats the jackpot. 0k. Oh, oh, oh weve got three. Youve got it . I think so. Very good. Thank you no kidding. And youll become a tram fan. Do you know what . Im from melbourne, im already a tram fan. Yeah. This is a very good photo, really spot on, and lighting condition is good. You captured it. Aw thank you this city is just bursting at the seams with enterprise. From the streets to the boardroom, commerce is in the blood here. Around 100,000 millionaires call hong kong home. And down on the streets, it feels like theres no backstage. Everyone is out doing their thing, making some money and maybe even working two jobs. Ashley yu is a local busker who, in True Hong Kong tradition, has a Side Hustle Running Street Food Tours around the blue collar district of sham shui po. And as im feeling hungry, shes invited me along. Why is this place so well known for its food . You can find pretty much all the Nostalgic Hong Kong localfood here, and you can actually find a lot of reasonable priced local restaurants here. Uhhuh. And some of them go back way, generations after generations. So, basically, if you want an authentic taste of hong kong, this is a place to come. Yeah. She greets woman. We are going to my favourite dumpling restaurant. Its owned by a little family. Its very much quite hidden. Are you up for a challenge to make some dumplings . If you will, i will. Sure. Why not . Lets go. You spread it out. Uhhuh. So its like a plait. 0h, ifeel like. Ifeel like he skipped over the difficult bit there. Yeah, i think he did. See, ive now seen the process and im feeling quite nervous. All right. I hope this is not too disastrous. Ok, so i do like. Like this . 0h, is that more than one . Argh 0ne. Is that one . Oh, its two. Its two. Two, two. All right, were off to a great start. 0k, let me do like this and then. Yeah 0k, well, not bad. Yeah not bad, not bad, not bad. For your first go, thats not bad. Thank you very much. 0k. I was proud of my efforts, but theyve swiftly been redone professionally, so i think thats just for the best. Whats special about this place for you . I think its the quality of the food. Mm hm. Its just. You cant find better dumplings somewhere else, at least not on the Hong Kong Island side. And they keep the price low, which is really rare in hong kong. Like, the owner wanted to keep it as affordable as possible for the community instead of, like, rebranding it into Something Like a hip dumpling restaurant. Hipster dumpling bar. 0ops very cool. The leek is making me burp. Itll do that. Yeah. I dont think. I dont think this is the one i made. They laugh. Its too nicely formed. Too perfect. Yeah. So, yeah, were heading to my favourite dai pai dong. Its an outdoor restaurant with a kitchen on the street. Unfortunately, we only have around two dozen of these restaurants left in town. Most of the time, its because the law makes it very difficult for the Licence Holder to pass it on to someone else. To pass it down to their kids is a little bit more difficult than you would imagine. 0k. So a lot of the time, people just kind of give up, you know, and then slowly, slowly, like, you know, before you know it, everything is gone. So, yeah. Like, the one were going to right now has been operating since 1956. Wow 0k. So, its been a while. Bruce and his mother run one of the oldest dai pai dongs in hong kong. Popo started the business over 60 years ago. Her son, though, is worried that changing times may impact the license for the business. Do you feel like you have a responsibility to keep this tradition going in hong kong . They want to sit outside to see the chef cooking. The neon lights of hong kong have been part of the citys visual identity for decades and have inspired artists, photographers and film makers. I havent been to hong kong for about 20 years, but my main memory of that time was you would look down a street and just be met with a river of neon glow. But looking around here, i dont see so much of it. Cultural Conservationist Cardin Chan has been monitoring the decline in neons for years. Youre the expert. Tell me, am i imagining things or is there less neon now on the street . You are absolutely right. They are considered illegal or not in compliance. Thats why, bit by bit, they need to go. Why are things different . Why has this changed . Around 2010, Buildings Department actually implemented, like, a new regulation for all signs, notjust neon signs. Its very sad. It is sad craftsmen known as neon masters created the signs. But as theyve aged, their unique skills are disappearing. Led has become a popular and cheaper alternative. So is this neon . I cant even tell. This is not neon. We call these led neon or led strips. So theres no Master Neon Artist doing this . It doesnt need to. Its not glass tube bending. It doesnt take that kind of craft, if you ask me. Isnt it strange, though . Because if someone had said to me, oh, whats the difference between neon and led . I would have said, oh, not much difference. But theres a huge difference here, isnt there . Its warmer. Its. Softer. Softer. More alluring. What is happening to the old neon . Please tell me theyre not just being thrown away. Well, usually, without our involvement as conservationists, traditionally and conventionally, all the tubes would be smashed, basically treated as junk. We want to actually save as many remaining neon signs. Theyre a part of our lives and they have been in our blood. They are actually in our dna. Do you have an emotional connection with these neons . Of course. Like, sometimes when i got really frustrated, like, when i could not actually save a sign, i cried because i felt like i failed my city. Sorry. It is my mission and my commitment to present to the world what our city has to offer. Wow i didnt think that a little question about, 0h, hey, there seem to be fewer neons around hong kong, could turn into a really quite heartfelt and interesting story about the Cultural Heritage of the whole city. I must say, Talking To Cardin was quite emotional. She cares so much about this, so it feels a bit privileged to actually try and understand it from her point of view. Many of the neon signs salvaged by cardin and her team have been painstakingly restored back to their former glory and are now on show at a temporary exhibition. Ive come along to look at these icons of hong kong up close. Yes 0ne Special Guest here today is tse ching yuen, who is now in his late 80s. The sign hung outside his Family Bakery for three generations before it was taken down. Cardin has arranged for him and his son to come and see the sign all lit up one more time. It might surprise you to learn that around 70 of hong kong is green. For my final stop, im off to lantau, one of hong kongs 250 odd islands. Its almost twice the size of Hong Kong Island and around aokm away. Lantau is a distinct contrast to the hectic buzz and skyscrapers of downtown hong kong. Its not unusual to spot a cow wandering the streets of lantau, even though we are so close to the city. Hello hi, christa hi. How are you . Im good. How are you . Im here to meet ho loy, a conservationist whos dedicated her life to taking care of another bovine creature the Water Buffalo. Were going to have a long day. Are you ready for it . I think so. Im ready to get my hands dirty, help the buffalo. This is the eco farm i grow. We bring the community here to take class and learn from us what the ecosystem is about. The hong kong people mostly are urbanisers. They dont quite understand what nature is about. So, we get their hand in touch with soil and plant and get dirty. We need to pack this bag, like, heavily pack. Ill give you 20 minutes. So all of this. All of this . All of this grass . Yeah. So what do these animals mean in Chinese Culture . We have 12 animals, but cow, tiger, chicken, pig are all real animal. They represent a value, a cultural value in our history. So the cow to me is the most important species among all of them. Yep, loy is a serious. Taskmaster. Be worth it, though. Hi, guys were going to start going now. Ijust need a bag. Its time to serve lunch, but where are all the Water Buffalo . Im going to call the buffalo now. Youre going to call the buffalo . Yes. Come with me. 0k. Stay behind me, dont be in front of me, cos they may come to me. 0h. Where do they. Where do they hide, loy . Dont come over, just stay on this side. 0k. There are Water Buffalo in this little stream here. They hide under the water. Well, theyjust stay cool under the water. Loy calls out. They might not hear loy� s call, so they might not know that lunch has arrived. Hopefully, they hear it today. Loy calls out squeaky bellowing. Just came out of nowhere and they kind of sound like ducks. Who knew . Stay behind me. So he is trying to dominate the herd now because hes getting old and is shrinking. But he is denying it. Oh so theyre having a dialogue. It is just incredible to see this. We just watch this sort of natural process happen and i can still hear the road just over there. Its so close to the city, its so close to civilisation. And yet you can come out here and witness Something Like that. Its incredible. So, originally, we were hoping this would be ideal for Breeding Herd in lantau, but we lost this Breeding Ability now, so they are just taking their time to slowly die out, which is a shame. So this is mother and son. They� re amazing, right . I cant believe were less than an hourfrom Central Hong Kong and were seeing this. Look at how beautiful they are, right . Its glorious. You know what i mean . Its beautiful. If we have enough time to learn about them, then we can learn more about ourselves. And this is what my message. We want everybody. So please, we need to learn more about what is in our environment. It is the most astonishing experience to have so close to the city. It feels like the kind of experience you might have when youve been on a safari for two days, notjust, you know, popped in the car overfrom Hong Kong Island out to lantau. What an experience theyre just beautiful creatures. Theyre so big and strong. I think the most incredible creature ive witnessed today is loy. She is a force of nature, this woman. I mean, i think the buffalo are definitely safe in her hands, that is for sure. Water buffalo bellows. What a way to end my trip to hong kong, with this cable car ride over these incredible hills, just hundreds of feet above the green. Its been a really eye opening trip, and ive seen different sides to the city and met some incredible people. What struck me was their passion for preserving the best bits of hong kong while still keeping an eye on the future. And i suppose thats fitting in a place like hong kong, which is always changing. Hello. A big change in the feel of the weather this weekend. Its been unseasonably mild and that mild weather has brought quite a bit of rain during the day. On friday, it brought half a month of rain to places like santon downham, but already the changes were with us further north and thats all courtesy of the Wind Direction. Now that rain having cleared away has allowed this blast of north westerly winds to sweep southwards. Now really tightly packed. Isobars mean weve got severe gales in some northern parts of scotland, but its the Wind Direction coming down from the arctic that will affect all parts this weekend and make it feel much colder, even colder because of the wind chill, which is bringing through wintry showers across the hills, notjust for scotland, perhaps the sparing and antrim mountains and into Cumbria Aurorae as well, snowdonia so a much colder night, some frost across northeast england and the glens of scotland. Not enough wind to prevent a widespread frost or indeed any mist and fog problems really. But this weekend starts colder and windy. The wind should ease down a bit by sunday, but its certainly a feature of the weather as we go through the first part of saturday. Those showers coming through thick and fast, adding to the chill feel and there around the Irish Sea Coast first thing, but they will migrate inland. So nowhere exempt from getting a shower, but always more prevalent in the north and west. But they will be heavy rumbles of thunder and some hail as well as the Wind Chewiness over the hills and only ten to 13 or 1a in the south. Thats six to eight degrees below where they have been, particularly the south this week. Now, the showers and the wind sees a little bit during sunday, but they keep pestering northern and western areas. But there will be a more widespread ground frost, probably our coldest night of the autumn so far. This is the coldest blast of the autumn so far. But it does mean, again, a good deal of sunshine. First thing, mind you, at this time of year, there will be a few pockets of fog around which can take till mid morning to clear, to watch out for if youre travelling showers or perhaps more cloud in the north travelling. Showers or perhaps more cloud in the north and the west of scotland. Temperatures though, a little lower than saturdays, but with lighter winds and a bit more sunshine, fewer showers, ishould imagine, not feeling quite as chilly. And then later into next week or the early part of next week, again, weve got the chilly nights, the frosty and foggy mornings, but temperatures do pick up later in the week as the unsettled weather returns. Theres more online. Live from washington, this is bbc news. Civilians are fleeing Northern Gaza by any means they can cars, trucks, or on foot after israel warned them to move south. As israeli air strikes on Gaza Continue the un Secretary General warns that evacuating more than a Million People is extremely hazardous. The us Secretary Of State has been on a whirlwind diplomatic mission, saying hes working with israel on safe passage for the palestinians. Im helena humphrey. Good to have you with us. Palestinian residents in the Northern Gaza Strip are fleeing their homes amid a 24 hour deadline to evacuate. The Evacuation Order was issued earlier by israeli authorities with leaflets dropped from the sky. It says residents should move to the area south of wadi gaza. Israeli forces have also ordered the al awda hospital