there are those who are trying. sergei shnurov is a very popular musician and leader of the band leningrad. leningrad was banned in moscow, purportedly for promoting alcoholism. >> cheers. >> [ speaking foreign language ]. >> this is sergei's wife, matilda. together they have opened this restaurant, cococo, with the mission to bring genuinely local, quality russian food to diners. >> we opened this restaurant one year ago which will work only with local seasonal farmers' food, and we are the first who did it. >> in all of russia. >> yes, in all of russia. >> traditional combination, rye bread and russian fish. >> chef igor grushekin's version of sushi. instead of rice, more traditional russian black bread with sprats, mackerel, cod