Right down there, cuddled up beneath us, our brother from another mother. I took a walk through this beautiful world felt the cool rain on my shoulder found something good in this beautiful world i felt the rain getting colder sha la la la la sha la la la la la sha la la la la sha la la la la la la anthony holy mother of santa muerte, please protect my stash of cocaine. Let it not be interfered with by the cops. Or the competition. Let any who would mess with me be killed. My enemies destroyed. Please forgive us our sins, for they are many. So, is business good . I mean, is there more murders . Particularly narco murders. Anthony every day, mexico wakes up to count the dead. They are, after all, left out to be seen. Often with a helpful note, identifying who done what and, generally speaking, why. There is a language to the neverending violence. A coded message in the twists and marks of the bodies. And Valente Rosas is one of the many documenting them for the press. This is what he does every night. Rides around, waiting for a phone call, or a radio message, telling him that theres another one. So, whos buying drugs . Whos selling drugs to who . Anthony here you kill each other for a reason. Its business . Valente si. Anthony more mexican civilians have been killed since 2006 than all the American Military lost in ten years of the vietnam war and eight years of wars in iraq. So what do you do if youre one of these cops . Youre driving around one night, you see some guy outside of a bar beating somebody or disturbing the peace. You start to arrest him, and hes got a diamondstudded pistol, its got his name on it. Now you realize, youve just arrested somebody with serious powerful connections. What do you do . [ valente speaking in spanish ] anthony youll let him go . Valente si. Anthony why do they always pull their pants down . [ valente speaking in spanish ] anthony our local fixer, alex, is here to translate. Alex in this case, he thinks that they pull the pants down so check him for weapons. Anthony theyre loading him into the sheet. Alex this is the csi team. So when they were pulling his pants off, money and jewelry started falling from the pockets. Basically, they took the money out of his pockets and that was the only available spot. Anthony to show that they didnt take anything. Alex yeah, exactly. So this is also a drug dealer. The thing here in mexico is as soon as someone is killed, normally they get candles just right next to it, sometimes santa muerte is related to drug dealings and criminals. Anthony how long have you been doing this . [ valente speaking in spanish ] alex about 9 years. Anthony how many bodies, do you think . Valente no lo se. Anthony hundreds . Valente si, quiza. Anthony how do you push them out of your mind when youre not working . [ valente speaking in spanish ] alex a lot of people ask him about this, but he said, like, its a job. Not like any other kind of job, but as soon as he gets home, he just takes this cover off and just keep living. Anthony thats a terrible picture. Its just thats sad. What happened here . [ valente speaking in spanish ] alex there was an elephant called ilda. She ran away from a circus. So, she basically was crossing the highway, and a big bus just ran over it. Anthony the world we live in now, of all of these pictures, this is the one that would get people most upset, youd get the most mail, the most, oh, my god, you know, what a what kind of a world do we live in . Alex this was probably the most viewed picture from different media around the world. Anthony 80,000 mexicans have died in the last seven, what, seven years . In narco violence . Alex and this is the most important picture. Anthony as our crew gets ready to crawl back to our hotel, valente gets the call we thought wed been waiting for one dead male shot in head, a note pinned to his chest. [ valente speaking in spanish ] anthony in mexico, people fight to live, everyday. One man stands alone, facing another man. His intent . To beat his opponent with his fists until he can resist no more. A match, yes. But more accurately, a fight. Jorge lacierva is a former bantamweight titleholder. With his father, jorge sr. , and his son, alexis, he trains aspiring fighters in this gym in the santa anita neighborhood of mexico city. He knows that these young men, like generations of boxers everywhere, from other neighborhoods like this, are looking for a way out. Jorge in mexico city, boxing is kind of like saving lives. You know what i mean . In boxing, they give you, like, a little discipline. Anthony lets say youre good, but youre not that good. Can you make a living just being a contender . Jorge no, but a lot of fighters, they try to make it. Tons of boxers. They want to be a champion. Anthony so, everybody wants to be a champion. Jorge everybody. Everybody wants to get for the big shot, but you know, you just want. Anthony those are bad odds. The history of boxing is not kind. I mean, most managers and promoters, they dont really give a shit about the fighters. Jorge they dont. Anthony they use them up, but at the end, they leave a guy all broken down, no money and scrambled brain. Jorge were just like a like prostitutes. You know what i mean . Anthony in this area, what are your options . If you drop out of high school . Jorge nothing, its just like being on the street, snatching, you know, robbing, and a lot of kids in the hood, theyre going to say, hey, lets go kidnap that guy. Anthony big industry. Jorge everybody here now wants to be a Soccer Player or a boxer, because they make money here. Anthony whos got a longer career . A narco or a boxer . Jorge i dont know. Might be 50 50. I mean, narco, you can last longer. Anthony you can. Jorge you know, youre protected by the police, you just pay it off. Nobodys going to touch you. Anthony expensive protein shakes and Dietary Supplements . Not so much. Boxers here eat what they can afford. Jorge the food in here is good and its cheap. You know, in mexico, theres no middle class here. Anthony youre either poor or youre really, really rich. Jorge i mean, its a crazy thing. The minimum wage here is like 50, 60 pesos, which is like five bucks. Not an hour. A day. Anthony but, on the other hand, thats why mexican fighters are so exciting. Theyre hungry. Jorge exactly. Were hungry. I had a heart problem. I was told to begin my aspirin regimen, and i just didnt listen. Until i almost lost my life. My doctors again ordered me to take aspirin, and i do. Be sure to talk to your doctor before you begin an aspirin regimen. Listen to the doctor. Take it seriously. Oh, sir. That was my grandmas. Dont worry, maam. All of your stuff is in ok hands. Just ok . They dont give two and a half stars to just anybody. Here you go. Whats this . Its your piano. Hold this for a sec. We dont have a piano. No. But the neighbors do. Just ok is not ok. Especially whe ts americat Wireless Network according to americas biggest test. Now with 5g evolution. The first step to 5g. More for your thing. Thats our thing. Dont worry. Travelocity is there for you with 24 7 customer service. Now, if your flight runs out of those mini bottles . Then, you can worry. Travelocity. Wander wisely. Hi, whats this Social Security alert . Its a free alert if we find your Social Security number on the dark web. Good, cuz im a little worried about my information getting out. Whys that . [bird speaking] my social is 8 7 5 dash okay, i see. [bird laughing] somebody thinks its hilarious. Free Social Security alerts from discover. Somebody thinks its hilarious. Forget about vacuuming for weeks. The new roomba i7 with Clean Base Automatic dirt disposal empties the roomba bin for you. So dirt is off your hands. If its not from irobot, its not a roomba. Anthony tepito is a city within a city, its own thing. Either the dark center, or the beating heart of mexico city, depending on your point of view. Its the home of santa muerte, the skeletal saint death. This is where they come the impoverished, the oppressed, the marginalized, the criminal. People for whom the Traditional Church has less relevancy. For the unforgiven, and the unforgiveable, for those on whom the catholic saints have turned their backs, there is santa muerte. This is a place and santa muerte is a saint that accepts everybody. Death to my enemies, written on a votive candle. Lets face it. Weve all prayed for that at one point or another. Tepito is a poor neighborhood for sure, and a tough one. A center of commerce, both above board and not. [ yelling in spanish ] [ honking air horn ] [ crowd cheering ] anthony but perhaps a breakfast beverage first. A michelada one giant beer with lemon, chili powder, salt, and maggi sauce. Thats a sizeable morning beverage. My companion, blogger and chronicler of the city, jorge pedro. Wow, the whole season of the walking dead for 25 cents. You want to buy something . Tepitos got it. Looking for some cheap underwear, pirated copies of man versus food seasons one through five . This is where you find them. So, this all seems very wholesome. I mean, you know, where can i buy a gun, some heroin, and a prostitute . I was looking forward to that. Jorge lets say that tepito has many layers, right . And we are on the surface. We are among movies, clothing, families, but i dont think its as easy as to be candid to ask, where can i get a gun . Probably, they will kill you if you ask that. You know san juditas . San juditas. Anthony patron saint of jorge hopeless cases. Anthony ah, lost causes. Jorge its become very popular in the last years. Anthony a lot of good smells here, man. And a lot of goodlooking food. My happy place is somewhere in here. Oh, there it is. Jorge yeah, were already here, migas. Anthony beautiful. Jorge la guera. Anthony wherever theres bones and guts simmering in broth, chances are ill be happy. Writer, sociologist, and lifelong resident of tepito Alfonso Hernandez apparently feels the same way. So, this is supposed to be a bad neighborhood, and this is the best. I love this neighborhood. [ alfonso speaking in spanish ] jorge it is known for being the lost souls neighborhood. It is called angeles neighborhood, like angels anthony right. Jorge being there, but in tepito, there are no angels, but lost souls. Anthony whats the saying . Alfonso comer bien. Anthony eat well. Alfonso coger fuerte. Jorge hard. Alfonso ensenar los huevos a la muerte. Jorge and showing los huevos to the death. Anthony show your balls to the devil . Or to jorge to death. Anthony on the menu, migas. The base comes from boiling cracked ham bones to release the marrow, to which garlic, onion, cascabel peppers and epazote is added. Thickened with stale bread and leftover tortillas. When you got nothing, you make something really awesome out of nothing. Jorge the grandmothers have the creativity to taking advantage of the bones of pigs. And now its a gourmet dish. Anthony any great, old culture where theres poverty, theres Something Like this. Yeah, by the way, if youre watching this, after you do this, you really gotta wash your hands before you touch your. Okay . Thats a rookie mistake, going to take a piss right after. [ woman speaking in spanish ] jorge shes asking you if you like the migas. If you enjoy it. Anthony yeah, its good. Delicious. So these guys have been open, what 65 years . Jorge all the members of the crew are relatives. Anthony is there hope for social change in this country . Alfonso lamentablemente. Jorge unfortunately, mexico has become the tepito of the world. Tepito is still the synthesis of the mexican. Anthony not a lot of upward mobility here. The rich get richer, the poor get ground slowly under the wheel. Eduardo garcia has hacked his way up the ladder to become chef, owner of the citys hottest restaurant. Eduardo i grew up in the states. I was a Migrant Worker picking fruits and vegetables as a kid. My parents didnt earn a lot of money, so i decided to work, rather than go to school. Anthony the restaurant business, as i well know, aint no picnic. And in mexico city, its particularly rough. Eduardo mexico has a reputation where we all know that the country is run by corrupt politics. You have to stand up for what you believe. If you dont, people will run you over. You wont last a minute. I dont let people bully me around. Anthony garcia runs Maximo Bistrot with his wife, gabriella. Heres the kind of extra helping of crap you got to deal with if you run the hottest restaurant in mexico city. In 2013, the spoiled daughter of the head of mexicos Consumer Protection agency walks in and demands a table when theres, unsurprisingly, no table available. When garcia says, sorry, no can do, she pulls a, you know who i am . And then calls daddy and gets the Health Inspectors in to shut the place down. So, your other customers basically started taking pictures of them with their cell phones. Eduardo next thing you know, we have the media outside, and this is friday. Anthony right. Eduardo sunday morning, were front page of one of the most important newspapers in mexico. Anthony well, it was very embarrassing to the government. Eduardo and they should be. Anthony because they got caught doing what they do all the time. But if you were not the hottest restaurant in town, if you were just running a cantina, you know, a few blocks away. Eduardo i wouldve been anthony they wouldve closed you down and thats that. Right now, a defiant, young, creative generation of mexican chefs like eduardo are performing some of the most exciting new cooking anywhere on earth. A mixing of the very old and traditional, with the very new. So, you worked at le bernardin. Eduardo ah, as a kid, yes. One of the jokes throughout the whole time that i worked is, how old are you . Im 18. Youve been 18 for 3 years. [ anthony laughs ] eduardo those are abalone from baja. I told you i love butter. I use it even for some mexican dishes, and then just some roasted chile serrano, just to give it a nice little kick for me. Anthony theyre finished with lemon, and of course, brown butter. Beautiful. Mm, very delicious. Very mexican, very french. Brown butter, its awesome. Makes everything better. Eduardo of course. I think the most important thing about mexican cuisine in general, if its traditional, its the ingredients. Anthony confit of suckling pig, topped with grandmas salsa. An instant classic. Eduardo have at it. Now, you do it like the mexican way. Pick it up and go. Anthony wow. Pretty hard to imagine anything better than that. Yeah, youre stuck with this dish forever, man. Eduardo forever. Anthony youre going to be like mick jagger, you know, 50 years from now, singing satisfaction. Theres no getting away from it, man, this is so good. This is a classic. But even now, with all his success, garcia is still fighting a struggle most mexicans are all too familiar with. Eduardo what happened that day, happens every day. And the promise always is, were going to shut you down. You dont know who i am, and for me, id rather close my restaurant than live like that. If you close my restaurant, i will go across the street. I will go to another state, or i will go to another country. And i still will make a good restaurant. Helps keep me feeling dry, how will they know i worked hard . Ive gotta make stuff harder. There, thats hard. Welcome to our lounge. Enjoy your stay. Thanks very much. Find calm in over 1,000 airport lounges worldwide. Its another way weve got your back. The business Platinum Card from american express. Dont do business without it. Yesss, im doing it all. The water. The exercise. The fiber. Month after month, and i still have belly pain and recurring constipation. So i asked my doctor what else i could do, and i said yesss to linzess. Linzess treats adults with ibs with constipation or chronic constipation. Linzess is not a laxative, it works differently. It helps relieve belly pain and lets you have more frequent and complete bowel movements. Do not give linzess to children less than 6, and it should not be given to children 6 to less than 18, it may harm them. Do not take linzess if you have a bowel blockage. Get immediate help if you develop unusual or severe stomach pain, especially with bloody or black stools. The most common side effect is diarrhea, sometimes severe. If its severe, stop taking linzess and call your doctor right away. Other side effects include gas, stomach area pain, and swelling. Im still doing it all. The water. The exercise. The fiber. And i said yesss to linzess for help with belly pain and recurring constipation. Ask your doctor. Anthony under former president felipe calderon, mexico launched a concerted war on drugs, ostensibly against the notorious and seemingly untouchable cartels. Absolutely no one can say, with any credibility by the way, that mexicos war or our trilliondollar war president reagan just say no. Anthony has had any effect in diminishing the flow of drugs into our country. One very brave journalist has uncovered exactly how deep the rot of corruption and dirty money has penetrated into every level of mexican institutions. Anabel my grandmother is from oaxaca, so how we used to drink the mescal is never with lemon. Its with orange. Anthony it was not what a lot of people wanted to hear, much less see published. Today, anabel hernandez, author of the groundbreaking expose los senores del narco, lives under guard in a secret location. The threat very, very real, and very explicit. Do you think there ever was a minute when the calderon war on drugs anabel yeah. Anthony was it ever genuine . Anabel no, who really start the war against the drug cartels was vicente fox. Felipe calderon just followed that instruction, but he didnt really do anything new. He just did it worse. Since the beginning, the plan of the government was to protect Sinaloa Cartel and fight against the enemies of Sinaloa Cartel. Anthony of the seven major mexican cartels, the Sinaloa Cartel is considered the most powerful, with the farthest reaching and most pervasive tentacles extending deep into every corner of government, banking and private industry. Its rivals . The tijuana cartel, the gulf cartel, the juarez cartel, the beltranlevya, la familia michoacana, and the particularly murderous los zetas. The cartels are responsible for importing roughly threequarters of all illegal narcotics to america. In your work, youve uncovered what had to be some very embarrassing and incriminating associations and connections between very high elected offic the president s, uh, and entire administrations and acts of incredible criminality. How did that change your life . Anabel well, when i start to make this investigation on 2005, and i really understand that it would be very dangerous, i have to say that it wasnt really a surprise for me what happened after i published my book. What i didnt expect is that the threats came from the federal government. Anthony anabel says that one of her sources warned her that the biggest threat was from within, that one of the most highly placed, most senior Law Enforcement officials in mexico had ordered her killed. Anabel because in my book, i put his name and also show some documents that proves that he was involved. He was in the payroll of the Sinaloa Cartel. Anthony what happened to this man . Anabel right now, hes very happy. Drinking rum, i think. Building many enterprises, fake enterprises, laundering his money. Anthony to me, the weak link are the bankers. A banker who launders money hes got a family, hes got a reputation, he gives money to charity, his neighbors think hes great, his kids think hes wonderful. Hes got something to lose. So i wouldnt be prosecuting drug dealers. Id be prosecuting bankers. Anabel the name of my book is los senores del narco, because los senores el narco are not only el chapo guzman, and the leaders of these cartels, no. Los senores el narco are also this the politicians and the and bankers and the businessmen. The people have to know who are these people name by name. Anthony youve been a journalist for how long . Since anabel 20 20 years. Anthony for 20 years. Your father was killed kidnapped and killed in 2000 . Anabel my father was a businessman. In that year, many gangs used to kidnap to the businessman just for money. So, when we went to the police and asked them to investigate, they said, well, if you pay us, we will we will we will make the investigation. So, as family, we decide dont pay, because you cannot buy the justice. Since that i really tried to fight against corruption. Thats why im doing what i do, because i think that corruption is the worst problem in mexico. The drug cartels are maybe the worst face of that problem, but the problem in the deep is the corruption. The corruption is the mother of all of our problems in mexico. Anthony it should be pointed out how that some 88 journalists how many journalists have been killed in this country . Anabel 90. 90 now. Anthony 90 journalists have now anabel yes. Anthony have been killed, or disappeared over the last few years. Anabel yeah. Anthony here, you can kill a journalist and get away with it. Why are you still here . Anabel i have lost many things in my life. My father was the most important person in my life. I already lost everything. I dont have any life anymore. I dont have a social life. I dont have a sentimental life. I dont have anything. I just have my work and my family. And my work of journalist is everything for me. I really believe that good journalists can change the world. I have received many offers to go outside to france, to sweden, and other countries. I dont want to left. Its my choice, my choice is fight. As a home instead caregiver, for everything that i give, i get so much in return. Hearing all of stanleys stories about his home, and everything that hes learned over the years, it reminds me that this is as much for him as it is for me. Join our family of home instead caregivers and help make a world of difference. Home instead senior care. Apply today. Home instead senior care. I felt i couldnt be at my best wifor my family. C, in only 8 weeks with mavyret, i was cured and left those doubts behind. I faced reminders of my hep c every day. But in only 8 weeks with mavyret, i was cured. 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Without drawing a drop of blood, again and again. The most personal technology, is technology with the power to change your life. Life. To the fullest. Anthony i came to oaxaca for mescal. I like mescal more and more these days. And this guy, ron cooper, finds and sells some of the best mescal in the world. Were at the zapotec ruins of monte alban. Cooper in preconquest mexico, there were gods and goddesses of intoxication and ecstasy. The touch of a lover, the smell of a flower, the aha of an idea, all had gods and goddesses that took responsibility for those things. Anthony all of your mescals come from different villages, and only that village. Cooper and only one maker in that village. We call our stuff single village mescal, because most mescals are made with a blend of different villages all put together. No one goes home and has a cocktail in these indian villages. They wait until theres a special occasion. Every birth, death, confirmation, baptism, theres a fiesta. A wedding is eight days. You invite 200 people. You feed em breakfast, lunch, and dinner. You have a band every day. And then they really consume. Dont drink yet. For mother earth and our ancestors. Then you say, stee chi beu. Anthony stee chi beu. Thats extraordinary. Back in the day, it was cheap stuff with a worm in it, and there were rumors that if you ate the worm, youd start tripping, that there was a hallucinogenic component to mescal. Now, is there a particular kind of a high . Is this an enlightening high . Is this a good high . Cooper the high is humorous. You have these funny thoughts dancing around the back of your head. Anthony happy, witty drunk. Cooper yes. Anthony in oaxaca, ancient indigenous traditions and ingredients define not only the mescal, but also the food. Alejandro one of the main reasons people visit our city is to eat. Anthony this is Alejandro Ruiz olmedo, one of mexicos best chefs. He started cooking young. When he was 12, his mother died, and it fell on him to raise and feed his five siblings. Alejandro this is what we call pasajo. Anthony today, he draws much of his inspiration from oaxacas central market. Anthony probably americas beloved food is what they think is mexican food. Alejandro yes. Anthony and i think most americans view of mexican food is like beans, fried tortilla, melted cheese, some chicken. Alejandro yes. Anthony in fact, but particularly were talking about oaxaca, this is a deep, really sophisticated cuisine. Alejandro thats correct. Oaxaca has this different microclimates all over our territory and that gives us this enormous amount of spices, products, fruits, chiles. Anthony like, 500,000 varieties of corn, Something Like that. I mean, this is really where the good shit grows. Alejandro ya estamos aqui. This is tons of barbacoa and this lady here is always making, like, the best. Anthony oh, tender. Alejandro yes. Tender, tasty. Anthony oh, man. Greens and crunch. Alejandro cabbage. And cilantro. [ woman speaking in spanish ] alejandro buen provecho. Anthony oh, unbelievably good. Just so tasty. Alejandro and theyre gonna give us some consomme. Anthony man, deep. Thats good. Im gonna finish this. cause this is just too damn good. Alejandro people have this barbecue, especially on sundays. Its a tradition to have barbacoa. Anthony its so tasty. Alejandro all this, ah, pasillo, its full of chiles, no . People think that mexican food has to be necessarily spicy because of the chilies we use, and we go for flavors, not for the spiciness. Anthony what most people miss is how really deep and really sophisticated the sauces here can be. Like lyon is to france, oaxaca is to mexico in my experience, you know . Alejandro youre right. Also its my experience. Anthony yeah. Im not kissing your ass here. I was just in lyon. Alejandro please dont do that. Anthony this is vickis place. Shes been cooking up traditional oaxacan dishes in the market for 30 years. Anthony whoa, thats awesome what hes doing. Hes cooking the egg right on the comal. Oh man. So the guy working the comal. First of all, a lot of comal you see now are metal. Thats old school, super old school. Thats the way they did it in zapotec times, man. Alejandro yes, correct. Anthony on the clay comal, and i mean, im looking and he is doing our tortillas, and hes doing one of my favorite things, the zucchini flowers with the string cheese. Ah, thats so pretty to see. Olmedos cooking, his focus, his passion, have very old, very deep roots. Alejandro my parents were farmers. In the small village like mine, since you are 6, 7, 8, you have a role to develop in the family. Anthony right. Alejandro so my role was to water the chile plantation, the tomato plantation, to milk the cows, and help my mom while she was making tortillas like that, she would give me directions and tell me, okay, roll the chiles, roll the tomatoes, ill tell you how to prepare the molcajete salsa. So that was the beginning of my profession. Cooking, learning from the knowledge of how a tomato should taste like when you cut it directly from the plant. Anthony the way it should taste. Alejandro thats right. Anthony oh, man. Happy. Alejandro this is what you should do. Try the egg first, like this. Anthony right. Ill just grab a grab a hunk. Alejandro yes, and then put salsa. Anthony yeah. I havent been anywhere in mexico where the cooking is better than here. Alejandro this is the way to preserve our culture, through our food. M are full of this complicated, tricky language about their network and offers and blah blah blah. Look. Sprints going to do things differently. And let you decide for yourself. Theyre offering a new 100 total satisfaction guarantee. Try it out and see the savings. If you dont love it, get your money back. See . Simple. Now sprints unlimited plan comes with one of the newest phones included for just 35 a month. So switch now. For people with hearing loss, visit sprintrelay. Com they feel like they have to drink a lot of water. Patients that i see that complain about dry mouth, medications seem to be the number one cause for dry mouth. Dry mouth can cause increased cavities, bad breath, oral irritation. I like to recommend biotene. Biotene has a full array of products that replenishes the moisture in your mouth. Biotene definitely works. It makes patients so much happier. The latest inisnt just a store. Ty its a save more with a new kind of Wireless Network store. Its a look what your wifi can do now store. A get your questions answered by awesome experts store. Its a now theres one store that connects your life like never before store. The xfinity store is here. And its simple, easy, awesome. Anthony the quiet little town of Teotitlan Del Valle is about 15 miles outside of oaxaca. A town where the arts, crafts, and traditions of the prehispanic mexico are celebrated and packaged for consumption. Abigail mendoza and her sister refina are zapotecan original people from mexico before the spanish. Before the aztecs. This is her restaurant, where abigail has been grinding corn by hand, making masa, and moles like this, the ridiculously faithful timeconsuming, difficult traditional way, she was taught to make these things. And the way shes been making them since she was 6 years old. Look at her hands by the way. Small, surprisingly delicate given all the hard work, all the pushing, kneading, grinding, stone against stone over the years. Then look at her forearms. The power there. Its impressive, and beautiful. Alejandro every time you enter a house in oaxaca, especially in small villages, they always offer you a shot of mescal. Anthony mm, so good. Seguesa. A mole and chicken dish. This mole sauce, like a lot of the real oldschool moles made by masters like abigail, uses 35 different kinds of chile peppers and takes more than two weeks to make. Do you think that, until recently, until guys like you, that mexicans were not looking back at their own food culture, they were looking elsewhere . What was going on . Alejandro we were conquered. We were also culture that was conquered first by the aztecs, and then we conquered by the spaniards. So, we were always told that everything that was good and excellent has to be imported, and what we have here, it was just not good. Anthony right. Another zapotecan classic, chile agua. A simpler dish of cow and pork brains, cooked with chiles, tomatoes, and yerba santa. Alejandro as a cook, the main thing i learned was to develop a little bit my cuisine here. There was this space where nobody tried to innovate, still using the same techniques, the same ingredients, the same flavors, herbs, etc. But, you know, develop it a little bit. Alejandro muchas gracias. Gracias. Anthony i mean, thats as old school as it gets. This is super ancient. Alejandro a finer dish than this one, you cannot have. This is something that you do not find anywhere else in mexico. Anthony a quiet night in the zocalo, the Central Square of oaxaca. But even tonight, theres plenty of evidence of the struggle, the discontent boiling just under the surface. The graffiti and painting of this street artist who goes by the name yescka captures that spirit of oaxacan protest. Anthony the last supper, for sure. Yescka its the last supper, but mexican last supper. Anthony who are these people . Yescka these are the most powerful people of mexico, people that is driving mexico. This is pena nieto, the president right now. This is felipe calderon, the last president , and that guy is like the economy guy who is moving the economy in mexico. And this is the army. This is a prostitute. This is represented because they this is a prostitute. This is represented because they are like prostitutes, you know . Anthony right. And uh yescka in middle this is the narco traffic. Anthony ah, the middle. Yescka so, yeah, he is like the god in mexico, you know . Because he is like over anthony all of it. Yescka yeah. Anthony so, this is the way mexico works . Yescka yeah. For me, the most problem in mexico is the corruption. Anthony mexico can be a dangerous place for journalists, for politicians, for police. Is it a dangerous place for artists . Yescka yeah, i think so. Yeah, because if you no agree with the government youre like enemy. What is that . Uh mine, why . Its just that its. Lavender. Yes it is, its for men but i like the smell of it laughs [narrator] do you remember that day . That day you met your hero . Ms. Bird, do you think i could be a champion like you . Of course you can. And you can call me sue. [jibber] jibber jabber, coming through salutations, famous female of orange round ball. Would you like an autograph . [jabber] excuse me. crowd muttering [woman] is that paper mache . Its you. 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Anthony in 1936, the town of cuernavaca, 50 miles from mexico city, was visited by malcolm lowry. A tormented, selfloathing, brilliant and hopelessly alcoholic author. His life work, under the volcano, was set here. It is widely believed to be one of the great novels of the 20th century. Lowry saw symbolism and evil everywhere here. In the deep barrancas, the looming volcano that towered overhead. Writer, poet javier sicilia, one of cuernavacas most celebrated residents, has reason to see evil, too. On march 28, 2011, narcos kidnapped and murdered his son, juan francisco, and six other equally blameless, innocent victims. Sicilia found himself moved to march to mexico city to demand an end to the increasingly futile, socalled war on drugs that was mindlessly grinding up so many victims in the crossfire and in the margins. [ singing ] anthony in under the volcano, the evil thats coming is fascism, nazism. What is the heart of the infernal machine today . Anthony what does he want to say . What does he want people to hear . [ translator speaking in spanish ] anthony can he think of one place on earth where the good guys are winning and where you are not ground under the wheels of the machine . Anthony have you written a poem since the death of your son . Anthony as i have come to know in my own life, drugs, even drug addiction, can be a survivable event. Death is not. Death is final
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