Pelley the africa mercy sails into ports to treat diseases that the rest of the world doesnt see anymore. You are our baby. Pelley for her mostly american crew. Hey, i hear your voice. Pelley . It is the journey of a lifetime. You know that there are some people saying to themselves, i could never do what she does. Those poor people are terribly disfigured. I cant look at them. People have been saying that to these people their whole lives. Someone has to look at them. Someone has to look them in the eye and tell them that youre human and i recognize that in you. Safer out on the lone prairie, a 200mile drive from the nearest airport, stands marfa, population 2,000. The train doesnt stop here anymore. At first glance, the place may look half dead. But look closer. Marfa today is an eccentric tex mex place of art galleries, tourists, cowboys and characters. Im steve kroft. Im leslie stahl. Im bob simon. Im morley safer. Im lara logan. Im scott pelley. 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Thats how our system works. Youre not made of money, so dont overpay for boat insurance. Geico, see how much you could save. Stahl in the wars in iraq and afghanistan, our soldiers have been waging whats known as counterinsurgency. Theyre supposed to be both warriors and community builders, Going Village to village driving out insurgents while winning the hearts and minds of the population. But counterinsurgency has had mixed results at best. We met a green beret who is finding out in his job as a Police Officer that the strategy might actually have a better chance of working right here at home in the u. S. A. Call him and his fellow officers counterinsurgency cops. As we first reported in may, theyre not fighting al qaeda or the taliban, but street gangs and drug dealers in one of the most crimeridden cities in new england. Mike cutone turning now, turning now on orchard. Stahl mike cutone is a massachusetts state trooper, part of a special unit targeting gang crime in the city of springfield. Cutone put your hands behind your back stop resisting read him his rights in spanish. Get the gun . Stahl hes also a green beret, who, after returning from iraq, had an aha moment when he was talking to a gas station manager in springfield. Cutone gang members would come in there, pull out a weapon, point it at employees or patrons, take what they want and walk out. No one was calling the Springfield Police, and no one was calling the state police. Stahl what this community was dealing with were gangs. They are a criminal enterprise. How are they like insurgents in iraq . Cutone insurgents and gang members both want to operate in a failed area a failed community or a failed state. They know they can live off the passive support of the community where the community is not going to call or engage the local police. Stahl the similarities to the iraqi town he had lived in and defended were so striking that he sat down and wrote out an action plan for springfield. Cutone we had this concept of what we would call a pilot team where you would handpick select troopers, give them specific training and embed them in the community and start winning over the community. Stahl he proposed his plan, a counterinsurgency program, to springfields Deputy Police chief, john barbieri. But he was saying he was going to bring military tactics into an american city. I mean, you must have had some qualms about that. Barbieri well, once it became clear that he wasnt talking about checkpoints or fast roping from helicopters, that he was talking about going door to door, organizing the neighborhood into a collaboration to report crime, to get involved in solving their own problems, it became obvious to me that that was exactly the type of program i needed for this neighborhood. Stahl barbieri and trooper cutone took us to a Housing Project in that neighborhood known as the north end. I heard that there were gang members on motorcycles with ak 47s on their backs, right out here. Barbieri they were very well organized. They had lookouts. They disappeared when the sector cars came. Stahl they were just riding right up here in front . Barbieri they were establishing the fact that this was their territory, and they were willing to fight to keep it. Stahl Deputy Police chief barbieri was desperate for a way to break the gangs hold on the community, so three years ago, he agreed to let cutone and a small team of elite troopers most of them war veterans, too target the north end, which had become a violent marketplace for some of the cheapest heroin in the whole country. In addition to drug busts, they walked the streets, knocked on doors, hung out in neighborhood shops trying to woo the locals. Cutone here for pastries today, food . Woman yes. Cutone outstanding. This is the best place in springfield stahl but there was a lot of skepticism; not everyone welcomed the troopers. Cutone i could remember one door, the last knock of the day that i had. A grandmother comes out, and she just teed off on me. Wanted nothing to do with me, used colorful language, said the police were racist, et cetera, et cetera. Stahl but they kept at it, almost daily. Cutone trooper mike cutone. Nice to see you, sir. Stahl . And eventually began developing sources and tips. Cutone were not just using bad guys for information and getting information; were using the other 99 of the population that live there, winning them over. They become our eyes and ears. And the floodgates have opened for criminal information that we can go after now. Stahl the floodgates have opened . Cutone yes, they have. Stahl that much . Cutone yes, that much. Myself and the other troopers, my phone is ringing constantly every day, either text messages. Theyll send me pictures of where they located guns. Theyll send me emails of whos selling drugs. Stahl one of the keys to Building Trust in iraq, cutone says, was having his counterinsurgency team move into the town, sending a message were not going away. Yeah, but eventually you drive off. Cutone we do drive off, but when we drive off, weve given them a template on how to control their town independently and without fear. Stahl with the uncertainty about counterinsurgencys ultimate success overseas, the troopers and local police are determined to build something permanent in springfield. Cutone as always, remember why we are here. Stahl and essential to that is a regular thursday elders meeting. Local residents come together with politicians, police, health and housing organizations, educators, businessmen and latino leaders. So, how important are these meetings to the Overall Mission . Cutone theyre crucial. Theyre crucial. What we found out is, you had all these different groups that do good work for lowincome folks in troubled areas. None of them were talking with each other. So, the thursday meeting brought all these people together. Karen pullman, a nurse from baystate, raises her hand at one thursday eeting and says, hey, i want to create a Walking School bus. Were like, whats a Walking School bus . Thats great. Stahl fear of the gangs was so high that parents and kids were often afraid to walk the streets. Cutone carlos, miguel. Nice to meet you, carlos. Stahl now, big, burly troopers and teachers walk neighborhood kids to school. Its a strong visual message to the families there that the troopers and police are protecting their children and taking control of the streets back from the gangs. Cutone and thats the beauty of the thursday meeting. Its empowering the residents and the people that come to it. Kit parker lesley, theyre just like the village elder meetings i was doing in every village i patrolled in in afghanistan. Stahl major kit parker is a professor of engineering at harvard. He also led counterinsurgency operations in afghanistan. Parker the key thing with counterinsurgency, based on my experience is make a friend. Make a friend. I dont have to find the enemy, i have to find a friend. If you find your friends, theyre going to take you to your enemy. Stahl he was on National Guard training one weekend two years ago, telling a group from his unit that he wanted to find a Police Department to test out using counterinsurgency against gangs. Believe it or not, mike cutone was in his unit. Cutone and then i shared with him, hey, were doing this in springfield, and his eyes lit up. Stahl his eyes lit up . His jaw dropped, is what he told us. Cutone yeah. Parker he said he had a bad gang problem in the north end of springfield. He said people were riding around on motorcycles with assault rifles slung over their back. And i got this vision of mogadishu. I got this vision of kandahar province where i saw this all the time two guys on a motorcycle, ones got a ak47 on his back. And then i told mike, i said, i teach a class at harvard. Let me see if i can bring this class in on this. Stahl and so, last spring, parker turned his junior engineering class into a counterinsurgency lab. Parker help me understand what kind of intelligence i need to collect when i am in the field, whether it is in the north end, im on main street standing by the taco truck, or if i am in kandahar city. Thats the kind of data i need. Stahl parker had his students, with their computer smarts, develop software for intelligence collection. With it, the troopers are building a database of gang members similar to what special forces are doing overseas. You have two tattoos. Stahl the troopers collect data as they book suspects, like criminal histories and tattoos. Two tear drops. Stahl . And use the information to make maps of the gangs social networks who they know and who they associate with. Once a gangs key figures are identified, the troopers try and remove them from the streets in hopes of fracturing the entire network. Cutone hi, maam. How you doing today . Stahl cutone brought parker and his students onto the streets of springfield so the class could survey the residents to see if any of the symptoms of that failed community had been alleviated. Parker they took a look at everything from s. T. D. Rates in neighborhoods where you have gang activity, litter, graffiti, school attendance, all of these things. Stahl they found that since the counterinsurgency operation started, north end schools have seen fewer discipline problems and drug offenses, and that litter and gang graffiti is no longer everywhere in sight important indicators, parker says, that the community is no longer totally under the gangs control. Parker what were seeing is that the number of calls for service is going up in the north end. So, that means. Stahl theyre reporting crime. Parker thats right. Theyre reporting crime. And i see that means the legitimacy of the Mass State Police and the springfield p. D. Has increased, and the residents of the north end realize they are their instrument to clean up their neighborhood. Teddy cupak ive been robbed 55 times that the police know about, but not lately. Stahl at the thursday Community Meeting we attended, residents like teddy cupak said this is the first time the police have really made a difference in the north end. Cupak this is what i want to get across this concept does work. It sort of flushes them out. I dont know where they go. I hope they get help. Cutone well, hey, teddy, some of them are going to work, and some are going to jail and some leave. Cupak thats right. Cutone thats my cell number. Dont give my cell number out. I dont want to get prank phone calls at 3 00 in the morning. If you are really looking for a job, we know a guy that hires kids and puts them to work doing construction work. Stahl let me ask you something. Those functions that you are performing, that sounds to me like a social service job instead of a police job. Cutone if the government is not going to do it, or individuals arent going to do it, why cant the Police Provide leadership or partner up with the community and say, hey, heres a plan. This is what we want to do to help . Because the status quo of traditional policing, it aint just going to work. Its not going to work. Stahl but you are still making drug arrests. Cutone but, see, you are misconstruing it like youre going to eliminate drugs completely. Youre not. What you want to do is reduce it to a level where you can manage it and then single them out one by one, versus having it rampant throughout the city. Stahl Springfield Police say they are managing it in their target neighborhood of the north end. They say Violent Crime fell last year by 25 ; drug offenses dropped nearly 50 . Cutone how long ago did that happen, sir . Stahl to show us how theyre using the tips theyre getting to fracture the gang networks, cutone took us on a nighttime drug raid. Police radio targets out, targets out. Stahl it was like a military operation adapted in interesting ways for an american city. Cutone they are in what looks a bread truck, an unmarked bread truck. Stahl but the bread truck was filled with a swat team looking like soldiers riding into battle. State police, search warrant state police, search warrant stahl as they burst in, someone on the second floor hurled something out the window. What do they got . Looks like a glock. Stahl a semiautomatic pistol. They also found around five grams of heroin and arrested three young men the police say are drug dealers, members of a local gang one of them just 15 years old. But that wasnt the most important thing the team did that night. Very quickly, cutone and the troopers turned their attention to the neighbors. Cutone im sorry, what is your name . Carlos carlos. Cutone carlos, nice to meet you. I like your rosary. I got one in my pocket. Stahl even on these kinds of operations, they put on the charm offensive. Cutone we want to engage these other folks and let them know whats going on and why were here. Stahl and that was part of the operation. Cutone absolutely. Stahl this summer, mike cutone and his army unit are being deployed to teach counterinsurgency to the afghan forces. Having brought what he learned at war home, he now wants to bring what hes learned on the streets of springfield back to afghanistan. Cutone good to see you. You take care. Go to 60mintuesovertime. Com for a tour of the Harvard Laboratory where science meets war. Sponsored by viagra. [ lighter flicking ] [ male announcer ] youve reached the age where giving up isnt who you are. This is the age of knowing how to make things happen. So, why let erectile dysfunction get in your way . Talk to your doctor about viagra. 20 million men already have. Ask your doctor if your heart is healthy enough for sex. Do not take viagra if you take nitrates for chest pain; it may cause an unsafe drop in blood pressure. Side effects include headache, flushing, upset stomach, and abnormal vision. To avoid longterm injury, seek immediate medical help for an erection lasting more than four hours. Stop taking viagra and call your doctor right away if you experience a sudden decrease or loss in vision or hearing. This is the age of taking action. Viagra. Talk to your doctor. This is the age of taking action. Ive got something for you too. announcer fancy feast delights with cheddar. A meal that is sure to delight your cheese lover. Now available in the classic form she loves. Fancy feast. The best ingredient is love. But when it comes to investing, i just think its better to work with someone. Someone you feel you can really partner with. Unfortunately, ive found that some Brokerage Firms dont always encourage that kind of relationship. Thats why i stopped working at the old brokerage, and started working for charles schwab. Avo what kind of Financial Consultant are you looking for . Talk to us today. Pelley around the world, countless millions suffer with diseases that could be easily cured if those patients could reach modern medical care. For a fortunate few, there is a lifeline called africa mercy. As we first told you in february, she is the largest civilian hospital ship on the seas. But she is also the closest thing to a time machine youre ever likely to see. Her largely american crew brings 21stcentury medicine to people who believe that illnesses are caused by evil spirits. The patients beliefs may seem archaic, but their courage is to be admired. They suffer from diseases unseen in america, illnesses that can make you believe in curses. Spend a few days, as we did, aboard the africa mercy and you will see how two worlds meet at the intersection of courage and compassion. She can be described in the usual dimensions of a ship 500 feet in length, eight decks, a crew of 450. Or you can reckon africa mercy as a hospital 90 nurses, 15 doctors, 78 beds, and six operating rooms. One of the first doctors who invited us into surgery was gary parker, a maxillofacial surgeon who came to the ship on a lark. Gary parker and i remember saying to myself, when i get an opportunity, i want to come maybe for a few months and just see what this is about, see if im cut out of the right fabric for that kind of life. Pelley and how long have you been here . Parker 26 years. Bonjour. Pelley youll understand why he stayed when you see the ship at work, as we did, in togo, west africa. A lot of ways here havent changed in centuries. Most live on 2 a day. There are few medical facilities. When the ship comes in, folks line up by the thousands for free dental surgery, eye surgery, and maxillofacial procedures for cleft palates and other deformities. Africa mercy makes port in countries all along the arc of west africa, 1,800 miles where slave ships used to land. Trace that coastline and youve put your finger on several of the poorest countries on earth. Here in togo, the lack of development and the poverty mean that one out of ten children one out of ten dies before the age of five. They die of diseases that we just dont see in the united states, including a particular kind of facial tumor that is a specialty of the ship. What youre about to see can be very hard to look at, but if youll be patient, itll be worth it. Gary parker is the chief surgeon. Parker hello. Pelley and one of his patients, edoh, was back for a checkup 17 years after surgery. Youre thinking shes disfigured now, but in 1995, at the age nine, a tumor destroyed her face and it was crushing her windpipe. Parker she was struggling to breathe. I was amazed at the sense of community. Lots of people were waiting outside the gate, and many with problems of their own. But when they saw edoh, they picked her up, put her over her. Over their heads, and literally passed her through the crowd, over the gate, and into the screening. Because they recognized that her need was greater. Pelley these tumors arent cancer; theyre benign. In fact, its tooth enamel that wont stop growing. In the u. S. , a dentist would remove it before it ever showed. But here, it is understood to be a curse. Parker these are people that go out at night and they forage for food. And then, in the day, they hide. They cant go to the market. They certainly cant go to school. They are isolated. Pelley so these patients arrive and theyre coming up the gangway. What do you imagine thats like for them . Parker ive seen it happen over and over and over again that when they are greeted on the ship or when theyre greeted at screening, and someone comes and shakes their hand, its like somebody recognizes that im inside here. You know, im trapped, i cant get away from this tumor. But im still in here. And the healing begins when they get acceptance based on who they are, no conditions, just, we know youre in there. Fatimata. We know youre in there. Pelley and thats what he told a woman named marta whos been trapped behind a tumor that has been growing for three years. Her husband had banished her from the home. She could die, over time, from this . Parker oh, yeah. Why, in 2012, should people be dying of benign disease . There are lots of reasons. There are no good reasons, but there are lots of reasons why thats the case. Longtooth forceps, please . Pelley so youre going to replace her jaw with a titanium jaw, essentially . Parker yeah. And then, some months later, bone from the hip is taken and put around the titanium, and that grows into new jaw bone. Pelley we followed martas progress over several months, and in a moment, well show you the change. Parker the uniform thats put on people when you have these terrible deformities is, youre rubbish, youre worthless. Youre spiritually cursed, youre. And when you can change the uniform, its huge. And the person starts to imagine that they might not be rubbish after all. No one in our world is rubbish. Pelley edoh, that first patient that we met, who came as a child, reclaimed her humanity with four surgeries in 17 years. I understand that youre in school. What are you studying . Translator she wants to become a nurse to help other people, too. Pelley she wants to be a nurse. Translator yes. Pelley shes met a lot of good nurses in her life. Translator yes. laughter pelley and we met a lot of good nurses, too. Do we want to do more than two days of. Pelley ali chandra is from new jersey. You know, you could be a nurse anywhere. You could be a nurse back home. I wonder why you do this work . Ali chandra i could never be a nurse back home anymore. I could never go back. Theres just this sense of Real Community that i would really, really miss if i ever left. Pelley one of her jobs in this community is to care for the sickest patients. Chandra youre all right, baby, youre all right. Pelley this is esther, another one of the tumor patients, as her breathing tube was being removed. Chandra okay. Pelley esthers tumor was massive and her recovery a desperate struggle. Chandra hey, i hear your voice, i hear your voice. Thats so good. Pelley esther could not understand the language, but the touch was unmistakable. Chandra good job, sweetheart. Pelley you know that there are some people watching this interview who are saying to themselves, i could never do what she does. Those poor people are terribly disfigured. I cant look at them. Chandra people have been saying that to these people their whole lives, and someone has to look at them, someone has to look them in the eye and tell them that youre human and i recognize that in you. And its really interesting when. Sorry. When new nurses come, a lot of the times, theyre very shocked, and you can tell that this is. Oh, i remember that, the first time i saw that it was kind of shocking. But you. It gets to the point where you dont. You dont see it anymore. You dont see the tumor. You just can see the persons eyes. Or if they only have one eye, because the other one is a tumor, you find their eye and you find a way to connect with them. Pelley that personal connection can last for years. A lot of these patients need multiple surgeries, and theyll come back again and again as the ship returns. The idea for all of this set sail back in 1978, when don stephens of texas started a charity that he calls mercy ships. So how did you find this ship . Don stephens we found her in denmark. She was a rail ferry. Pelley africa mercy replaced three earlier vessels, and stephens says that, over 35 years, hundreds of thousands of patients have been aboard his ships. Where does the money come from . Stephens weve got corporate sponsors that we couldnt do what we do without them. Secondly, by the crew themselves. We have a unique business model. We charge everyone for the privilege of volunteering. Pelley and you pay them nothing . Stephens everyone pays their own way. Pelley doctors, nurses and crew pay their own way with donations from home, mostly from churches. Would it be okay if we pray with you . Pelley youre often reminded onboard that this is a christian charity. Chandra god, you are good. Parker we pray for your protection over her. And we pray for a complete recovery. Pelley . A charity that treats patients of any faith. Amen. Pelley west africa is a territory of tribes, and the ship is a tribe unto itself. Theres no help out here. Fire on board. Pelley the crew drills for every emergency. Its a tight community. Many stay for years. R, which is the rate. Pelley they raise their children in the ships school, and return to america on vacation. Ali chandras been on board four years and, now, shes pregnant, but she plans to stay. I wonder, do you think of this as a sacrifice that youre making . Chandra no, not at all. Theres things i miss from home. I miss strawberries and i miss fresh milk. And i miss my family. Not in that order. You have no idea how awesome this life is. I get to see the world. And i get to take care of incredible people. And why would you want to live in a house on land . This is way more fun. Pelley you met your husband here . Chandra i did. Yep. I am one of the mercy ships romances. Not the only one. Pelley are there a lot of those . Chandra they call it the love boat. Yeah. Pelley who calls it the love boat . Chandra i know a lot of. Any of us who have found our loves here. Pelley she found phil, a ships electrician. Gary parker met his wife, susan, onboard. And theyve raised wesley and carys in a 630squarefoot cabin. Susan found out how long they were staying on tv. Susan parker somebody had asked him the question, how long do you plan to be here . And gary looked straight in the camera and he said, i hope for the rest of my life. And we looked at each other and sucked in our breath. laughter and we started a journey of adjusting our expectations from that point. Pelley the first time you saw him after you saw the documentary, did you say. Susan yeah, i did. And he said, you never asked. Pelley you never asked. The only life the kids have known makes them strangers back home. Susan a couple of years ago, we were in santa barbara, visiting garys mom. And i gave carys a letter and i said, would you go down and mail this for me . And she was gone for about 20 minutes. And when she came back, she said, i dont know what a mailbox looks like. laughs and i thought, okay, were in trouble here. Pelley and today, you do not wish you were somewhere else. Susan no. You know, theres nothing wrong with living at home, but i dont think its what were supposed to do. Pelley that conviction tends to be renewed with every life that is changed. The quickest change that we saw came in the patients who were the slowest up the gangway, each step taken on trust. Theyre blind cataracts. The surgery takes half an hour cataract out, new lens in. Some of them had been blind for decades; now, they can see in 24 hours, a cause for celebration. The maxillofacial patients are years from healing completely. This was marta before her jaw was replaced. And this is how she looked after surgery. The tumor is gone; it wont grow back. And when the ship returns, shell have cosmetic surgery for the scars. Africa mercy spent five months in this port. 281 tumors removed, 34 cleft palates made whole, and 794 blind patients returned to sight. With that, africa mercy threw off her bonds to togo and steamed for another desperate point on the african coast. The africa mercy has just completed another mission, this time in the west african country of guinea. Its next port of call is the republic of congo. On board will be ali and phil chandra, along with their baby girl, zoe. Welcome to the cbs sports update presented by pacific life. Here in the final round of the world golf championships bridgestone invitational from firestone country club, tiger woods shot a final round 70 to win for the eighth time here. A win by seven shots. Next week the final major of the year from oak hill in rochester, new york, the pga championship. Cbs Sports Coverage begins saturday at 2 00 eastern. For more sports news and information, go to cbssports. Com. Information, go to cbssports. Com. Jim nantz reporting from ohio. T. Starting a family. Or entering a new chapter of your life. While the journey is yours, pacific life can help you protect and grow the assets youll need along the way. To learn how, visit pacificlife. Com. Pacific life. The power to help you succeed. [ male announcer ] you wait all year for summer. This summer was definitely worth the wait. Summers best event from cadillac. Let summer try and pass you by. Lease this allnew cadillac xts for around 399 per month or purchase for 0 apr for 60 months. Come in now for the best offers of the model year. The blisters were oozing, and painful to touch. I woke up to a blistering on my shoulder. I spent 23 years as a Deputy United States marshal and ive been pretty well banged up but the worst pain ive experienced was when i had shingles. When i went to the clinic, the nurse told me that it was a result of having had chickenpox. I wouldnt wish it on my worst enemy. teen boy they say a 68yard field goal in high school is impossible. Just because they say it cant be done, doesnt mean you have to listen. male narrator hungry is never letting anything stand in the way of your dreams. New hormel rev wraps. 15 grams of protein. For those who are hungry. Of the things you love. Hello, bacon. Get more with breakfast and a tworoom suite for rates as low as 115 per night at an embassy suites. Book now at embassysuites. Com getaway. Safer it sometimes seems america is a country hopelessly divided by class, by politics, by culture. Tonight, we go once again to a remote place where few have trodden before marfa, texas for a lesson in artful coexistence. Marfa is in cattle country, the high desert of far west texas. Like many small towns, its come close to extinction. But today, marfa lives on, is even thriving; its renaissance spurred by the arrival of a host of young, cuttingedge artists. Mixing cowboys and culture might seem like a bad idea, but its made marfa a capital of quirkiness. And as we reported in april, its produced a harmony as sweet as the Country Music that fills the air. Blue texas skies keep shining down on me. Safer out on the lone prairie, a 200mile drive from the nearest airport, stands marfa, population 2,000. The train doesnt stop here anymore and, at first glance, the place may look half dead. But look closer. Marfa today is an eccentric tex mex stew of art galleries, tourists, cowboys and characters. Dan dunlap its a freedom loving town. People are allowed just to live and let live. Safer as mayor, dan dunlap presides over a town where old marfans saddle up to ride the range and the new ones paint and sculpt, all in a very quiet place. Crime a problem . Dunlap no, sir, crime is not a problem. Safer when was the last murder you had in marfa . Dunlap cant remember. And action safer well, there was one. The coen brothers shot their movie, no country for old men, outside of town. They needed a local to murder, one with some acting experience. Chip love i told them i was in the wizard of oz in high school, and they said, thats perfect. Safer laughs so, chip love, a local banker, found himself face to face with that loco hombre, javier bardem. Its pretty unusual for the towns leading banker. Love yeah, im the towns leading banker. The only one, yeah. Safer . To get shot in the head by a crazed crook. Love well, i think a lot of people would like to see their banker shot right now. Safer actually, the movies and marfa go way back. In 1955, the texas epic giant was filmed here, and townspeople got to watch rock hudson roping, james dean riding and elizabeth taylor. Well, just being elizabeth taylor. Theres a shrine to the movie in marfas paisano hotel. Love it was about cattle. It was about ranches. It was about the things that we hold dear. Marfa safer but these days, watching the passing parade, youre not quite sure if youre in mayberry or greenwich village. cheers safer for old marfans, theres the gun show. We started this program in 2010. Safer for new marfans, a symposium on politics, culture, climate and sustainability. And, for reasons we werent able to pin down, adolescent hula dancers. Buck johnston i mean, its nutty. Its just this cultural little hub in the middle of nowhere. We think its the best small town in america. Camp bosworth dont tell anybody. Edit that out, please. Johnston thats right. Safer camp bosworth and buck johnston are members in Good Standing of the marfa new wave, their gallery packed with camps texassize wood carvings. Bosworth this is a six shooter, its gold leaf. And this turns, you know. Ive carved it with various details. Safer theres also the pistol that doubles as a bar. Youve got lots of tequila. Bosworth yeah, lots of tequila. Safer a few blocks away, painter Ann Marie Nafziger is hard at work, an ohio native who moved here from portland, oregon. Your first trip to marfa, what did you make of the place . Nafziger i was astounded by the landscape coming in, the land and the light. Its an incredible place to look at as a painter. I love living here. Maryam amiryani with the elvis. Safer Maryam Amiryani paints still lifes and cultural icons. She was born in iran, traveled the world, and wound up in marfa. Amiryani my husband and i wanted to move somewhere to live a simple life close to nature, to paint more. Safer what did this place have that others might not have had . Amiryani it just seemed a bit more. More extreme, and that. That appealed to us. laughs welcome to west texas. Safer if you want extreme, try the weather in marfa. Dust clouds, a tornado or two. Safer its best described as all over the map. Well, the wind outside is howlin, coyotes cry in fear welcome to west texas youre going to like it here. Love ive always been amazed at the courage these people have that come out here and not really sure how theyre going to make a living. And they just show up because it feels right. Safer the new marfans have transformed the place. Padres,the local watering hole, was once a funeral parlor. Ballroom marfa, a gallery, was a mexican dance hall. Camp and buck live in a converted church. And there are further signs this is not your grandfathers marfa. Yoga teacher exhale, forward, fold. Safer yoga fans can catch up on their chakras and downward dogs at the town bookstore, and also read up on abstract expressionism. Tim johnson, a poet philosopher, runs the place. This is a remarkably big bookshop for a very small town. Johnson yeah, it really is. We have, like, 60 to maybe 80 or 90 people who come out for a poetry reading, which is strange. And it has something to do with the fact that there are basically no other competing entertainment options. Safer theres not much competition on the road, either. Marfa has one stoplight; the next one is 56 miles away. Bosworth every now and then, youll have to wait for, like, five cars. laughs and you really do find yourself going. Johnston what is going on . Bosworth . What is going on . Johnston who let the traffic out . Announcer you are tuned to krtsmarfa, 93. 5 f. M. Safer its also just about the smallest town anywhere to have its own public radio station. Tom michael if cattle could fill out pledge forms, we would have a station. Safer laughs manager tom michael says, in marfa, public radio is really public. Volunteers serve as d. J. S. Listeners find themselves on the air. Michael you know, we got some great cranks in west texas, sweet curmudgeons. We really love hearing from them. Safer tell me about some of them. Michael tuggy lancaster, she passed away last year. She would call up and say, my donkeys want to hear classical and jazz. Safer laughs Ellery Aufdengarten is a local rancher born and bred in the wide open spaces. Ellery aufdengarten i mean, how can you beat this . Look. It doesnt get any better than this. Safer he might well agree with churchill, who said, theres something about the outside of a horse thats good for the inside of a man. And though he admits to understanding cattle better than understanding modern art, he gives the new artistic marfans a tip of his stetson. You think its been good for the town . Aufdengarten i would have to say yes. I mean, i. I dont know what it would have looked like if they hadnt come. Safer do you mix at all with the artsy people . Aufdengarten yeah. Yeah. Safer what do you make of them . Aufdengarten its kind of like bird watching, sometimes. Safer laughs in a way, all the creative souls whove landed here are the spiritual descendants of this man the late donald judd, an artist who headed west in the 1970s. Rob weiner he wanted to get out of new york city. It had become too claustrophobic, and he wanted to go to a place that was much more open, as far as the landscape was concerned. And he loved the land. Safer rob weiner worked for judd, who set up shop on a deserted army base. Hes now associate director of a museum housing works by judd and other minimalist artists. Weiner judd wanted a kind of museum that would give a different experience of how the art and the architecture and the landscape work together. Safer today, antelope play among judds boxes. Boxes little boxes and bigger boxes, boxes all in a row, not made out of tickytacky but of concrete. Joe cabezuela we dont understand the art. Its different, you know. Were used to portraits of cattle, windmills, cowboys. Safer Joe Cabezuela is a Community Leader among marfas hispanics, who make up 75 of the town. Its a place where tolerance once had its limits, depending on which side of the tracks you came from. Cabezuela back when i was growing up, a mexican kid couldnt go out with an anglo girl. I mean, it was. You know, they still went out. The parents didnt know about it, but. laughs safer but these days, anglos, hispanics, tourists and marfans old and new all rub elbows. Do you roast the jalapenos . No. Safer and most everybody agrees the newcomers have given marfa a new face. Cabezuela marfa would have been a little old dusty town had they not come in and sort of, like, revived it, you know. Safer has the economy improved for the Hispanic Community . Cabezuela it has because of the jobs, i believe. Safer and with the artists and the tourist dollars, the town now has not one but two upscale restaurants. At el cosmico, sort of a hip trailer camp, you can sleep in a teepee or an airstream. And if you decide to stay on, youll quickly learn the basic facts of life in a very small town. Number one, be nice. Nafziger theres a reliance on other people. You should make sure youre getting along with your neighbor because youll probably need them. Safer number two, Everybody Knows everybody elses business. Michael i mean, the joke is, you dont need to put on your turn signal because they know where youre going. Safer so, no secrets . Michael no secrets. Safer and number three, no frills. Weiner its still a hardscrabble lifestyle. Theres no pharmacy, theres no dry cleaner. Its hard to get things. Safer and newcomers can find the wide open spaces claustrophobic and the sound of silence deafening, especially if youre a transplanted new yorker. How often do you have to get out of here . Weiner you know, between six and eight weeks, im usually ready for a jolt of city life. Safer and on your way out of town, youll want to stop at the most bizarre spot in these parts. There, at sundown, like a desert mirage, is prada marfa. Boyd elder theres been people stopping, thinking its a store, slamming on their brakes. Safer its full of 1,000 italian shoes and 2,000 bags, but the door is always locked. As custodian boyd elder explains, prada marfa is not a store but a statement put up in the middle of nowhere by two german artists. Elder they wanted to see what happened by putting it here, to see if it would stay and to see what the results would be. And they want some kind of, like, public response to their art. Safer and they got it. Pilgrims to marfa cant resist a snapshot. Beyonce, for instance, was swept off her feet; others werent. Elder i mean, its been vandalized. Some people love it, other people hate it. Safer what about the folks in marfa . What did they make of it . Elder i think a lot of them think its just a joke. Safer what do you consider it to be . Elder i consider it to be hilarious. I consider it to be facetious. And i consider it to be neurotic. laughs texas moon shining bright. Safer and so, we bid a fond farewell to the Magic Kingdom of marfa. Many moons ago, somebody named the place after a heroine in the novel crime and punishment, but this marfa has very little crime and thus virtually no punishment. Except, of course, for the long and lonely road. You make a great team. Its been that way since the day you met. But your erectile dysfunction it could be a question of blood flow. Cialis tadalafil for daily use helps you be Ready Anytime the moments right. You can be more confident in your ability to be ready. And the same cialis is the only daily ed tablet approved to treat ed and symptoms of bph like needing to go frequently or urgently. 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