BBCNEWS Surfings Dirty Secrets June 4, 2024 22:32:00
But im going to get back into surfing, get back on my board and i will do it better this time, try and be sustainable and green, and see what i can find out. because all of this is a world away from surfings origins. riding waves was once a sacred practice. in ancient hawaii it was a way for men and women to praise the ocean gods. surfing struggled through colonisation, but by the 1920s the so—called king of surfing, duke kahanamoku, was spreading his love of the surf abroad. even the future k...
Source: archive.org