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Still, for many of Salman’s customers, there were few alternatives to stay warm and find a hot meal. “A lot of people have been coming here for 18 or more years,” he said. “If the weather s bad, we still try to open.” With few other places in the area open, Jasmine has become a de facto warming center for regulars and new customers alike. A couple dozen people had gathered inside Jasmine. When the electricity worked, the central heating kept the space warm. Salman fired up heaters and customers crowded around tables nearby. The waiters on shift rushed from one table to the next, trying to keep up with the orders.

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