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Piero Cruciatti/ AFPHow do you solve a problem like Predappio?This small town in the hills of northern Italy where Mussolini was born in 1883 remains something of an enigma. The previous mayor called it the “Chernobyl of Italy”—a place too toxic to touch. It plays host to large neo-Fascist rallies, souvenir shops selling Mussolini trinkets and the tomb of Il Duce himself, which lies in a crypt in the town’s municipal cemetery. All of this co-existing alongside 6,000 c...

Right-wingers treat Predappio as a Disneyland of sorts; to left-wingers, it’s a toxic symbol of Italy’s handling of its fascist past. But the reality is far more complicated.