Kimberly Rooney 高小荣 Tofu dandan noodles The pandemic forced a shift in many people’s relationships to food ordering in rather than going out to eat, cooking more often, or, in some cases, simply learning to cook. For me, the pandemic represented an opportunity to improve my repertoire of tofu recipes. A little more than a year later, I’ve expanded my list of go-to tofu recipes, but for more concrete advice, I talked to Alex VanLaningham, who has worked as a sous chef at or, The Whale and Fairlane. “You have to accept from the beginning, you re gonna screw it up sometimes,” VanLaningham says. “And that s OK.”