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407-240-5151 $$ For many years, our Desi dining scene just coasted along like the yacht rock of gastronomy it was, captained by Mughlai, South Indian and Pakistani restaurants serving dishes long familiar to dozy patrons. But American Gymkhana, backed by the owner of Michelin-starred Junoon in New York City, disrupted the paradigm after opening here in 2014. While it closed the following year, the restaurant left an indelible impression on Indian restaurateurs and blew a little wind into the weathered sails of a cuisine that, frankly, had languished for a long time. Six years on, we find ourselves amid a revitalized expanse, buoyed by upmarket, populist and mom-and-pop joints and feasting on everything from Bengali to Hakka to Keralan fare. In the case of Bombay Street Kitchen, all of the above.

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