Even with a clumsy wooden fork and a plate made out of bread, my grilled mackerel easily came off the bone. No wonder it was in the sea barely an hour earlier
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Equal parts chic Adriatic beach town, active archaeological site and proud, gritty port city, Split is fueled by long seafood lunches, ancient traditions and wine-filled evenings. "We re great hosts," said Ivica Puljak, the physicist-turned-mayor of Split. "But our priority is that Split remains a living center for our citizens."