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The Critic s Notebook | The New Criterion

Truffles Are Everywhere Now

Truffles Are Everywhere Now
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Earthy Possessions

The subject line of Shake Shack's email was unequivocal: "TRUFFLES FOR ALL." The Danny Meyer fine-casual chain was touting its latest seasonal offering, the Black Truffle Burger, with 100-percent Angus beef, melted Gruyère, crispy shallots, "and our real black truffle sauce, not fake 'flavoring,'" for a mere $8.89.

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