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How a family-run, locals-only noodle spot in a not-so-fashionable part of Hanoi became a tourism hotspot in North Vietnam

Disclosure statement Nicolas Bricas is an employee of CIRAD, a French research organisation with EPIC status, which has an interest in ensuring that its researchers make their work known. He participated in a research partnership with Danone Nutricia Research (without additional or specific remuneration). The book "Manger en ville. Regards socio-anthropologiques dAfrique, dAmérique latine et dAsie" (Quae) received financial support from the Centre national interprofessionnel de léconomie lait...