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EU special status for halloumi fails to calm divisions in Cyprus Helena Smith in Athens © Provided by The Guardian Photograph: Yiannis Kourtoglou/Reuters
Just when it seemed halloumi’s greatest battle had been won, the “white gold” of Cyprus is once again causing ructions.
Weeks after being awarded EU protected designation of origin (PDO) status, giving consumers the guarantee of an authentically made Cypriot product, the chewy cheese has managed to elicit anger on both sides of the UN-patrolled “green line” fracturing the divided country.
“With all these rules, the EU is asking us to make an imaginary product,” said Nikos Papakyriakou, who heads the Pancyprian Organisation of Cattle Farmers. “There’s a special formula to halloumi. But they’re demanding that, in addition to cow’s milk, it be made with 51% of sheep and goats milk. How is that possible when there are not enough sheep and goats here?”
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