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This New-School Taquero Is Making L.A.’s Best Breakfast Burrito Andy Wang © Provided by Food & Wine Courtesy of Macheen Let s say it s 8 a.m. on a weekday in Los Angeles. You have things to do, but you need a pick-me-up before anything productive can happen. Groggy and hungry, you drive to Milpa Grille in Boyle Heights, where Macheen chef Jonathan Perez is doing a five-days-a-week takeout pop-up with his tacos and breakfast burritos. You order an enormous birria burrito, which is $10 and big enough for two meals. You take a bite. The pillowy scrambled eggs, crunchy chile-dusted tots, and tender braised beef jolt you more than any cup of coffee could. (Milpa Grille also has good coffee.) Just like that, you re fully awake.

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