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some back down i know we're gonna make it in a time like this ♪ ♪ when love comes round i know we gotta take it in a world like this where people fall apart ♪ ♪ in a time like this when nothing comes from the heart in a world like this ♪ ♪ i've got you [ cheers and applause ] >> jimmy: backstreet boys, and their new cd "in a world like this." >> jimmy: i want to thank larry david, naya rivera. apologies to matt damon, we ran out of time. tomorrow night johnny knoxville, logan lerman and music from queens of the stone age. thank you for joining us, "nightline" is next. good night. tonight on "nightline." we're on the road to adventure with undercover travel reporter going to extremes to help you avoid the tourist trap. and find the hidden gems. in search of the perfect holiday. and speaking of great vacations, there is camping and then there is glamping, for those who care less about the creatures and care more about being pampered. and the oscar goes to ellen degeneres. move over, the boys are on the naughty list. and nice is from new york city, this is "nightline." with cynthia mcfadden. good evening, and thank you for joining us. ever notice how we never seem to get as many weeks of vacation as we feel we need? so when you do take those precious days it had better be for something special, right? if you have ever arrived at a hotel room that has not been cleaned, or an attraction that has not been seen since, this is for you. for those that snagged that dream vacation they're taking us along for the ride. here is abc's david wright. >> reporter: one of the great travel writers paul theroux said that travel is glamorous, only in retrospect. carolyn mccarthy may agree, she is a travel writer. >> people romance the travel writer, thinking that you're sipping drinks on the beach. when in fact you're taking buses, guessing where you are, getting lost, taking 20 different hotels. now you get my experience. this is from the highest floor. it is not what people think it is. >> reporter: still, it is easy to see why people may envy her job. we followed along as she researched the lonely planet's panama guide book. there are 18 adventures for the planet. indiana jones hot on the trail of the perfect summer holiday. >> for $25. >> reporter: for someone else. >> so i'm just making sure that i got some of the details that i saw but i didn't have time to write down. >> reporter: for 40 years, lonely planet guide books have made even the most remote destinations a littleremote for. discovering gems abroad and at home. you guys picked san francisco as the best city in america? >> the best city for travel, yes. >> reporter: that is allison bing, another lonely planet writer, updating the san francisco guidebook. >> we have never remet, but i he read some of your guide books. >> reporter: she showed us why to find the most exotic teas, and the best sslami in north beach. >> i know a good salami. >> reporter: in one day, the best of both worlds. time style, america portions. >> you have a pretty good job. >> the best, really. >> reporter: of course, every job has its down side. >> having very little personal time can be a challenge. i also feel like my job is privilege and i get to see things that nobody sees. >> reporter: carolyn spends 70% of her life on the road. >> for me, i love doing it. i am addicted to it and it is hard to give it up. >> reporter: it takes time to vet every situation. and the lonely guide claims still to do that. so what is the down side of the job? >> you don't get any sick days. and that can be a problem when you have 20 budget hotels to cover the day after you have been up all night with food poisoning. and that did happen to me. and it was in the sahara. >> reporter: plenty of travellers are not inclined to lug a big book in their carry-on, relying on source data like google and travelocity. if i were to go to a destination with my ipad, wouldn't i have all the information at my finger tips? >> would you be confident that it would be professional? that is why all the information is so so valuable. because we triple check our facts. >> reporter: each of those spots on the map is a hotel. carolyn has to visit them all. >> it is the only one with a pool, i wanted to check it out. people like it. could be a little cleaner. >> reporter: she also checks out the five-star trump tower. >> this is amazing, very nice. so is this tempered glass? >> yes. >> okay, sound proof, that is good. our readers used to be backpackers, but they grew up. so now they have more discretionary income. maybe they don't want to sleep in a dorm bed anymore, they want the creature comforts. so maybe they want a luxury hotel so we research for a wide variety of people. >> reporter: no matter how many stars the hotel has, the drill is pretty much the same. >> i look at the beds, there seems to be at least nice mattresses. and how many beds there are in a room. if there is air. what kind of lemons do you use? >> reporter: inspecting beds and bathrooms? >> i'm looking to see if there is hot water. i'm looking to see -- obviously, people have been using this all morning. oh, wow, this is cool. actually, there are a couple of hairs. >> reporter: only a few seconds to stop and admire the view. >> hi. >> reporter: then it is on to confirming price points. >> so i saw a deluxe room, 159 plus tax. >> reporter: and documenting every last detail. >> trump tower for me. [ speaking in a foreign language ] >> after seeing so many different types of lodgings, year after year, i can clock it, go into a place and ten minutes i get the vibe. >> reporter: just as important as a place to stay is a good place to eat. among allison's top five in san francisco, this hole in the wall korean spot. >> i love that. let's get that. what really matters to me as a lonely planet writer is that people don't waste their time and their money and vacation on a bad meal or a bad place to stay or a bad experience. they couldn't afford it, otherwise. >> reporter: definitely dining out is a big perk of the job. >> on to the fish market. >> reporter: but there is a catch. carolyn doesn't just eat for herself. she has to eat multiple meals for her readers. >> this is great, i tried these, they were good, i don't need to make myself sick. i just need to get the idea that there is a general level of quality and it was good. >> reporter: and this is just the appetizer. there is no sitting still. >> i just ordered that tonight. >> reporter: ultimately, it is all about finding good value and hidden gems. >> this is why people think you have a burden. >> reporter: korean acupuncture. >> the parts of my job that are not so glamorous, like fact-checking, the bus schedule, checking out -- >> reporter: how clean the toilets are. >> exactly, you really have to check how clean the toilets are. >> reporter: and the food and ice cream. >> do you think that is ice cream -- >> they did have this, off the menu -- >> reporter: it is illegal now, so between the acupuncture and to mah the massage, and ice cream, i think you have a great gig. >> not bad, and of course i have to come back and try. >> reporter: some experiences don't end up in the book. >> i can't believe i'm paddling up the panama canal. >> reporter: carolyn paddled off to meet this indigenous tribe, hoping for a recommendation. >> this is the kuna family home and really it is unusual to see it on camera. because usually they don't allow filming. >> reporter: alas, it ended up not being a side trip she would recommend. >> i day like today is a little frustrating. i want to show people new things and take advantage of going off the beaten track, but i don't think this is going to make it into the book because i don't think they're ready for tourism. >> reporter: in the end, their journey is meant to be a jumping off point for the rest of us. even with its headaches, not a bad job at all. does it pay well? >> it is all right. yeah, it adds up. >> reporter: where can i apply? >> the website, the same way i did. >> reporter: all right, i'm david wright for "nightline." in san francisco. >> well, you can find lonely planet's picks for best value destinations at our website at abcnews.com/nightline. well, up next, it is the little things that can take your camping adventure from awww to ahhh. >> abc news "nightline" brought to you by mercedes benz. using stereoscopic cameras... ♪ ...and even stop itself if it has to. the technology may be hard to imagine... but why you would want it is not. ♪ the 2014 e-class, it doesn't just see the future, it is the future. ...and a great deal. .he future, thanks to dad. nope eeeeh... oh, guys let's leave the deals to hotels.com. ooh that one! nice. got it! oh my gosh this is so cool... awesome! perfect! yep, and no angry bears. the perfect place is on sale now. up to 40% off. only at hotels.com and now hot pink toes. seems tough for a tough dog like duke. but when it has to do with gwen, he's putty in her hands. for a love this strong, duke's family only feeds him iams. compared to other leading brands, it has 50% more animal protein... ...to help keep his body as strong as a love that can endure any fashion trend. iams. keep love strong. now you can keep love fun with new shakeables meaty treats. apply cold therapy in the first 24 hours. but not just any cold. i only use new thermacare® cold wraps. targettemp technology delivers a consistent, therapeutic cold to stop pain and start healing. new thermacare® cold wraps. a better way to treat pain. think camping, and maybe a crackle i crackling fire comes to mind, making gooey smores at midnight. sounds like fun. but the whole bit for many about sleeping on the ground and no showers leaves them saying no, thank you. but traveling to go camping can be easier, where you have a little taste of home on the range, as long as you have cash to spare. here is secilia vega. >> reporter: roughing it, not for everyone, especially not the ladies on the "real housewives of orange county." but there is camping, think the parent trap. >> i hate this place, i hate this dirty, stinking, dirty place. >> reporter: and then there is glamping. that is glamping with a capital "g." the great outdoors. for high rollers who never once have to lift a finger. >> that is the whole great thing about what we do. is you show up and it is all ready to go. it is like a hotel, you just check in, you walk away when it is done and we do all the cleanup. >> reporter: must be nice, right? okay, well, let's see this luxury. okay, come on in, enter the fancy tent. >> so this is our standard setup. which is a full bed, down comforter, pillows. >> reporter: yeah, comfortable. >> it is cozy. >> reporter: what do people say when they walk inside one of these tents for the first time? what is their reaction? >> it is so big. >> reporter: of course, it will cost you, the more luxury you want, the more you will pay. most glampers will walk away with a huge amount. >> i think the base of it is sleeping. glamorous camping, i think -- you're in a real bed, what we're doing, it is a real bed, with real bedding. >> reporter: also you get a butler. the camping has provided a real oasis in places such as africa for a century. think "out of africa". >> what happens tomorrow? >> i have no idea. >> reporter: and hitting the ro roads in the u.s., here it has become a national summer pasttime. but now, there is a new generation of not roughing it. high-end camp sites are popping up faster than you can say more smores, please. websites like glamping.com are devoted to the mass of glamping devotees. this couple has made a business out of it. a former wedding planner, she started this company as a way for everybody to have the camping experience, minus the hot dogs and the sleeping bags on the cold, hard ground. what is the craziest request you ever received? >> we just recently did an event where they wanted wild life brought in. so we had llamas brought in to the property. >> reporter: because nothing says camping like a llama. is this like full service? >> yes, full service, you name it, we can do it. >> reporter: so in terms of like the highest end you can possibly go, what are you getting? >> i mean, the highest end you can possibly go, we can helicopter you in somewhere from the middle of nowhere to have your amazing camp set up with a full-time chef and a yoga structu instructor, and maybe a llama guide. >> reporter: but is this really hard core camping? >> it is camping, just amplified. >> reporter: sure, you may have a way to have to real deal, but the chef there used to work at the same french laundry restaurant. so what is on the menu tonight? >> we're braising king salmon, tomatoes, and capers. >> reporter: and what night of glamping would be complete without a butler? what is in the broad description? >> it is very broad. it could be anything from as simple to lighting a fire as getting coffee going in the morning. making sure everything is well lit and your batteries are working in the tent. and opening wine. >> reporter: so if i rang a bell? >> yes, unfortunately i didn't bring in own, but i would come if you did. >> reporter: you could have a chef, a butler, yoga, even wild animals shipped in. but what about the wild part of camping that is ever glamorous? yeah, they bring that in, too. >> we often bring in restaurant trailers that have individual stalls, a flushing sink and a hot water shower. it is like having a normal shower. >> reporter: do you love or hate the word "glamping"? >> i don't love it. but it goes right with the event production we can do and the different services. >> reporter: what would you call it? >> high end camping. >> reporter: there is one other essential. a glamping must. >> i see something in that basket that i wonder is also a staple of camping? >> smores? yes, we always say smores and whiskey. >> reporter: more smores, madame? >> yes, thank you. well, next, the envelope, please, announcing the next oscar host. and the new queen of nice is ready to keep it clean. well, it's the only place i can get my kids arizona jeans, which means they can find the perfect pair that fits great... and it's affordable... oh, and it's got all the other brands they have to have. i've been told this stuff can make or break your entire year. but i'm not even going to pretend to know what "cool" is. i'll just take 'em to the sales and leave the rest to them. doorbusters friday 3 to close, saturday 9 to 1. style. quality. price. now at jcpenney. plus the perfecting color of a bb cream equal? 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[ female announcer ] fight 7 signs of aging flawlessly. i'm gonna have to ask you to power down your little word game. i think your friends will understand. oh...no, it's actually my geico app...see? ...i just uh paid my bill. did you really? from the plane? yeah, i can manage my policy, get roadside assistance, pretty much access geico 24/7. sounds a little too good to be true sir. i'll believe that when pigs fly. ok, did she seriously just say that? geico. just a click away with our free mobile app. fby eating healthier, drinking plenty of water, but still not getting relief? try dulcolax laxative tablets. dulcolax is comfort-coated for gentle, over-night relief. dulcolax. predictable over-night relief you can count on. a hungry bear has his eye on some takeout, and oscar has his host for hollywood's biggest need on this of "feed frenzy." >> hostess with the mostest, ellen degeneres announced today on twitter she would be hosting the next academy awards. it is official, i'm hosting the oscars, i would like to thank the academy, my wife, porscha, and oh, dear, there goes the orchestra. >> it is my job to relax you and put your mind at ease that this is a make or break night. >> who is known for being nicer than this year's controversy choice, seth m and they let out a big sigh of refuse leave.
United-statesNew-yorkArizonaHollywoodCaliforniaIndianaNorth-beachPanama-canalPanama-general-PanamaFranceSan-francisco you hold it really close to you, and you open up that door to believing that you can make it. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ >> anthony: hawaii is america, as american as anything could possibly be. yet, it also never shed what was there before and the layers and layers that have come since. it's a wonderful, tricky, conflicted, mutant hell broth in what, for lack of a better word, you'd have to call paradise. >> paul: nowhere's paradise. paradises don't exist. paradise is, kind of, in your head. >> anthony: wait, wait a minute. you look out your window here and you look at those hills, those mountains, all that green, that blue sky, and gem clear sea. it, it sure looks like paradise to me. this guy knows, he's been everywhere. he's paul theroux, novelist, essayist, and legendary traveler and travel writer. of all the places he's been, all the places he's seen, he chose hawaii to live, and he's lived here for 25 years. does it matter that it's america? >> paul: no, that's a big thing, that it is america. it has elements of the third world. the nicest elements of the third world. >> anthony: right. >> paul: which is funky. there's this self-respect, this pride. there's things that don't work at all. and then it's main street, usa where we are now. i mean, there's pta meetings here. they get together and watch the super bowl. and it's the most main street, usa, or as much as you will find. >> anthony: town is a neighborhood spot in honolulu's kaimuki district and, as hawaii is the only state in the union that allows day boat fisherman to sell directly to restaurants, the pan-roasted mahi-mahi is pretty damn good. >> anthony: it's not a particularly welcoming or friendly part of the world. contrary to the, sort of, the "aloha myth." >> paul: no, that's right. that's right, but no island is. nantucket isn't, the isle of wight, isn't. name an island. they want foreigners in corsica? sicily, they want foreigners there? no way, no way. >> anthony: right. >> paul: did anyone ever come to an island, uh, with a good intention? people, people -- >> anthony: no, never in the history of the world. >> paul: no, no. >> anthony: best case scenario bring syphilis. >> paul: yeah. >> anthony: pretty much. >> paul: yeah, yeah. >> anthony: i mean, at the very least. >> paul: and it happened, it happened here. captain cook put his sailors ashore in ni'ihau, which is just a little northwest of here. he was the first haole. like magellan. hawaii killed its first tourist and -- >> anthony: right. >> paul: philippines killed their first tourist. but people who live on islands, who were born on islands, view anyone who comes to shore with suspicion. ♪ >> nainoa: well, to go back to what defines a hawaiian, maybe we should go back in our imaginations to -- it could have been two thousand years ago. the tahitians have this voyaging canoe. way before any other culture on the planet is exploring the deep seas. somehow gets here someplace in the south pacific, single most isolated archipelago on the planet. fast forward to captain cook and his identification of native hawaiian. you get a glimpse that these are very productive people. they're industrious. they were healthy, strong. and they had time for the arts. that was a large population, more than half of what we have in hawaii today. fully sustainable because there was no other choice. so, over time, the native hawaiian population goes to twenty-two thousand. it's the same story. introduced disease, inability to deal with it, people die. 1926, the public school system would outlaw language and the practice of culture in public schools. so, the road to extinction is being well paved. >> anthony: between captain cook's arrival in 1778, and today, disease wiped out most of the population. missionaries came. a booming sugar and pineapple plantation industry. an influx of immigrants from japan, okinawa, china, and the philippines. there was the overthrow of queen liliuokalani and the u.s. takeover of the hawaiian government, world war ii, and, finally, statehood. the geographical realities of being thousands of miles from, well, anywhere else has given hawaii, to some degree, protection from the forces that eradicated so many other south pacific cultures entirely. in fact, they've arguably been holding back the inevitable creep better than just about anyone. what hawaii looks like today depends on which island you're standing on. and, to some extent, the reputation of the locals. the hawaiian islands are not a monolith. islands, that's plural, and we are talking eight very different islands with very different identities. it's been over a century since the waves of immigrants began and things got all mixed up in the best possible way. there's layers and a simple question like, "who is hawaiian?" gets you all kinds of answers. the neighborhood of kalihi is a far cry from hawaii that most people know. and ethel's has been a go-to of a very specific kind for the last forty years. >> andrew: it's a blue-collar town, you know? they all come here. breakfast, lunch. yeah, every day. >> anthony: i'm joined by two local chefs. mark noguchi, of mission, known by some as the gooch. he's second generation japanese. and andrew le, of the pig and the lady. he's first generation vietnamese-american. or would that be vietnamese-hawaiian? as you'll see it gets complicated. >> mark: i actually cooked on the east coast for three years and people would always be like, "oh, you're from hawaii, you're hawaiian!" and i was like, "no, no, no, no. i'm second generation japanese." "no, no but you're from hawaii that makes you hawaiian." and it was like, "no." and then what i realize is like here in hawaii we identify ourselves ethnically versus geographically. like, there's no way that he and i would call ourselves hawaiian. we'd get our ass kicked by a hawaiian. >> anthony: how many generations does it take? i mean, who qualifies as hawaiian in your view? >> mark: to me a hawaiian is a kanaka maoli, is a native of the land. it's in your blood, your koko. you come from a lineage of native hawaiian people. >> anthony: what's your feeling here? >> andrew: i do feel like i'm hawaiian in a sense. you know, because it's, like, my place. but culturally it's a different story. >> anthony: well let me ask you this, you're saying you're not hawaiian? >> mark: no. >> anthony: what's your feeling about spam? >> mark: i love, i love spam. >> anthony: so you're hawaiian. >> mark: i'm from hawaii. i'm born and raised, gonna die 808. >> anthony: the owners of ethel's are a sort of typical hawaiian mix. okinawan ryoko ishii, aka mom. mainland japanese husband yoichii. daughter minaka, who i guess would be japanese-okinawan-american slash hawaiian. and son-in-law robert who is, of course, mexican. >> mark: it's the pig feet. >> anthony: oh, nice, that's pretty. oh, wow look at that! that's the tripe. >> mark: that's the tripe, that's the tripe. >> anthony: that looks good. [ laughter ] >> mark: spam and bitter melon! >> anthony: now we are talking. oh that's awesome. >> andrew: i just call it local food. >> anthony: right. >> andrew: but local just, like, covers, like, a wide net. when i look at this table, again, i just get hawaii. it's got portuguese, japanese. you got okinawan. world war ii, i don't know some type of -- >> anthony: korean. >> andrew: korean, japanese, hawaiian. love child plate of awesomeness. >> anthony: right. the food is some bone deep hawaiian stuff, my friends, which is to say a delicious mash up of, well, look -- take taco rice, it's a dish created in okinawa to approximate tex-mex for home sick american gis that was then appropriated in a post-ironic way by younger generations of okinawans and japanese, and has now found its way back to hawaii, got that? >> andrew: goin' right in there. >> anthony: wow. >> mark: identifying and seeing my best friends who are native hawaiian helped me to realize the pride of being from hawaii. understanding the hawaiian culture, living it. but also being very proud of being japanese. >> anthony: there's still a movement to a sovereign, uh, a sovereignty movement. so, if fighting broke out in the streets which side are you on? >> mark: i'm getting tear-gassed. >> anthony: you're getting tear-gassed. you don't even have to think about that. >> mark: well, you know what's funny. i always joke about it. it's like, if, like, the nation of hawaii took it back, right, and ousted uncle sam. my whole thing, and they would say, "no, no, no hawaii is for native hawaiians only now." i'm like, "hey everybody needs a cook!" like, "i'm a cook, i have worth." ♪ even though we just started dating ♪ ♪ i find you so captivating ♪ and i'm done with hesitating let's see where this goes? save on a gift that says it all. ♪ jared the holidays are here and so is t-mobile's newest, most powerful signal. and we want to keep you connected to those you love, with the new iphone 11. so t-mobile is giving you an iphone 11 on us for each new line of unlimited. for yourself, or up to a family of four. keep your family connected, and hurry into t-mobile today, to get up to four iphone 11's on us. only at t-mobile. (children playing) (dog barking) ♪ (music building) experience the power of sanctuary at the lincoln wish list sales event. sign and drive off in a new lincoln with zero down, zero due at signing, and a complimentary first month's payment. if you have moderate to thsevere rheumatoid arthritis, month after month, the clock is ticking on irreversible joint damage. ongoing pain and stiffness are signs of joint erosion. humira can help stop the clock. prescribed for 15 years, humira targets and blocks a source of inflammation that contributes to joint pain and irreversible damage. humira can lower your ability to fight infections. serious and sometimes fatal infections including tuberculosis, and cancers, including lymphoma, have happened; as have blood, liver, and nervous system problems, serious allergic reactions, and new or worsening heart failure. tell your doctor if you've been to areas where certain fungal infections are common, and if you've had tb, hepatitis b, are prone to infections, or have flu-like symptoms or sores. don't start humira if you have an infection. help stop the clock on further irreversible joint damage. talk to your rheumatologist. right here. right now. humira. >> anthony: this is nainoa thompson. and in 1976, along with a number of similarly heroic hawaiians. he did a very difficult, very important thing. before 1972 it was generally assumed, even insisted upon, that hawaii had been settled originally by some random savages who'd maybe drifted over accidently from south america. it certainly couldn't have been ancient polynesians. they couldn't possibly have been the kind of sophisticated navigators who could guide a sailboat willfully across the pacific, across thousands of miles of open water. >> nainoa: nobody could see the canoe here. too beaten, knocked out of you, no dreams, no hope, can't see. >> anthony: the polynesian voyaging society, with the help of crew members like nainoa thompson, set out to prove that that was exactly what did happen. >> nainoa: there were those in the community that, that loved this canoe, prayed for it. and also those who feared this canoe because they sensed change. you have a sixty-two foot twelve ton voyaging canoe. i mean, it was powerful, it changed everything. >> anthony: the hokulea. a double hulled sailing canoe. a replica of the kind of craft believed to have been used in those times. and using only primitive, contemporaneous navigational tools sailed 5,500 miles to tahiti and back. a trip that helped spark a hawaiian renaissance. a rebirth of pride and interest in traditional hawaiian culture and identity. >> nainoa: the success was monumental. it changed world view. that our ancestors were powerful, they were extraordinarily intelligent. they were courageous, and they were skilled. and so we come from them. >> anthony: thompson is a legendary water man. he's continued to sail on hokulea's missions. native hawaiian, his roots in this valley go back two hundred years. >> nainoa: my grandfather was born here. so i grew up milking cows here with my grandfather. >> anthony: he spent many years learning traditional polynesian navigation techniques from a master. mau piailug, of the small micronesian island of satawan. >> nainoa: this is a man that was chosen by his grandfather. at one year old he was put into tide pools to be trained and learning the wind and the water. and, at five years old, he was sailing with his grandfather. and, then, he would never say that as some sense of abuse but only love. he says, "yeah, when the wave make the canoe move the canoe make me sick, my grandfather threw me in the ocean so i can go inside the wave. and when i go inside the wave i become the wave. and when i become the wave now i'm navigating." at five. so, when i approached him, he just said to me, "you're too old. you want someone to know everything send your son to my island," but, he said, "i'll teach you enough to find the island you seek. but i can't teach you the magic." >> anthony: why do you think it was important to do such a difficult thing? >> nainoa: i mean, it's the same story that you're going to see in -- >> anthony: well, everywhere. >> nainoa: everywhere, in terms of indigenous people. my father's mother nearly pure hawaiian, chooses not to teach her children language or culture or genealogy. where do you come from? who is your family? what's your link? and that could have been a hundred generations. what the voyage did was a reconnection back to feeling wholesome about who you are. knowing where you come from, and who are your ancestors. so the hokulea, when it got to tahiti, it was their canoe. it wasn't our canoe, it was theirs. and, so, then it started to ignite this flame. again, symbolic, a bumper sticker, a t-shirt, start to emerge. "i'm proud to be hawaiian." 1987 it becomes the first language. it's mandatory in the schools. hawaiian culture has to be taught in public schools. private schools will not have attendance if you don't teach hawaiian. >> anthony: right. >> nainoa: now it's, hawaiian identity is into everything. it has to be recognized in everything. you're going to go to molokai. >> anthony: yep. >> nainoa: that community is powerful. >> anthony: when i mention to people, locals in oahu and maui, other hawaiian residents, that i was going to molokai, the response was almost always surprise. molokai did not have a reputation for being welcoming. that it was dangerous to go over there, that those molokai dudes were mean, inward looking, unfriendly, tough as iron, and quick to get pissed off. as it turned out, that was not my experience. >> walter: so we like to brag about what we don't have. we don't have traffic lights. we don't have a building over three stories. we don't have traffic. >> anthony: nice. >> anthony: walter naki is a skilled fisherman, and today we're headed out for some octopus. >> walter: you know molokai's nickname right? it's called the friendly isle. >> anthony: yeah, but it's famous not the friendly island. it's supposed to be the most unfriendly island. i mean, that's what everybody says right? >> walter: depends on which way you look at it. traditionally we're very, very friendly. now, unfriendly is when you go try and come and fix it. >> anthony: right. >> walter: make it better. >> anthony: right. >> walter: or try to take something. >> anthony: right. >> walter: that's when we become unfriendly. the molokai people have been protective of their resources. so we have a lot of our natural resources still intact. >> anthony: still? >> walter: yes, but then there's always other people that want to come. >> anthony: unsurprisingly fishing rights is an issue around here. don't come over here sport fishing the wrong place if you know what's good for you. >> walter: so tony, this is basically where we go diving, this area, a nice sandy spot. okay ready, go ahead, let it go. okay, we are here, man. ♪ when we get here to the octopus, we're gonna coax him out of his hole. so, we stick the spear in there. you're gonna make him feel he's not safe no more. when he comes running out there you want to stick him with a spear. >> anthony: final step, stun the struggling creature with a sharp blow from a mallet. or, if you want to go old-school, bite him right in the brain. in my case it took repeated crunching to locate the apparently chiclet-sized organ. >> walter: it's going to come to you, take your time. >> anthony: this one died, eventually, as likely by exhaustion as anything else i suspect. ♪ ♪ only roomba i7+ uses two multi-surface rubber brushes. and picks up more pet hair than other robot vacuums. and the filter captures 99% of dog and cat allergens. if it's not from irobot, it's not a roomba™. a former army medic, made of the we maflexibility to handle members like kate. whatever monday has in store and tackle four things at once. so when her car got hit, she didn't worry. she simply filed a claim on her usaa app and said... i got this. usaa insurance is made the way kate needs it - easy. she can even pick her payment plan so it's easy on her budget and her life. usaa. what you're made of, we're made for. usaa ♪ ♪ >> anthony: while the sailing canoe the hokuela was a powerful spark for the hawaiian renaissance, this was what really set things off. beginning in 1941, and continuing into the 70's and beyond, the u.s. navy had been using the beautiful neighboring island of kahoolawe as a bombing range. you could feel the shockwaves as far away as maui and molokai. >> ritte: i'm proud of my hawaiian blood and nobody can tell me any different. >> anthony: people had never been happy about it, but emboldened by the times, and by recent events, a group of young activists decided to take a stand. in 1976 there were a number of attempted occupations of the island, in protest of the bombing, none more successful than walter ritte's. he and a fellow activist named richard sawyer set up on the island and refused to leave. >> ritte: one day i will put my dream back over there. >> anthony: managing to evade pursuers for just over a month, before finally being and arrested and jailed. >> ritte: and the first order is burn down this building and put up -- >> anthony: they emerged, of course, heroes. and these protests went on to inspire many others to join the movement. >> ritte: i hope i'm still alive when that day happens. because i want to see our queen back in office. >> anthony: and embodied the independent spirit, the desire for hawaiian empowerment and sovereignty that today resonates across generations. ♪ welcome to what is supposedly the most unwelcoming place in hawaii. ♪ >> hano-hano: komo mai, anthony, come in brother. come into keawanui. my name is hano-hano. >> anthony: thank you so much. >> hano-hano: nice to meet you. >> anthony: thank you. >> hano-hano: please come inside. >> anthony: hello, hi, aloha. this is keawanui fishpond. a shared community space with a sacred history. hano-hano is the caretaker of the fishpond. he's a local community leader here in molokai. also here is the famous walter ritte. >> ritte: everybody knows how valuable all of this stuff is because we can see what happened to the rest of the islands. >> anthony: so essentially an old school fish farm. >> hano-hano: eight-hundred years old. >> anthony: eight-hundred years old. >> hano-hano: modernizing one old idea. and an ancient idea is as simple as feeding your community. and this, the island you're on, this place could feed over a million people back in the day. >> anthony: you hear the word again and again on molokai. ina, which means land, and translates to "that which feeds you." springs, mountains, rivers. these lands, these fish ponds, were managed by their ancestors as a sacred trust. here, where fresh water from the mountains and fast moving ocean waters met. early, sustainable, clean fish farms. something in modern times we are still struggling to figure out. >> ritte: because you heard about what people think about us. but the true story is that we have a place of abundance and we try to protect it. try to protect all of these things that we've been able to protect for the last thirty years and it's getting harder and harder. >> hano-hano: every single one of these hawaiians over here get enough evidence that the state of hawaii, the department of land and natural resources, have done a terrible job. we're not even looking for blame. we're actually looking for an agreement that from today -- >> anthony: right. >> hano-hano: we all gonna be pono, we all gon' be righteous, we all gon' be good. our planet is in such, um, bad shape, that being environmental, being green, is trending. that's where the hawaiians have always been. >> anthony: so, who gets to be hawaiian? this is the question, who is hawaiian? >> hano-hano: hawaiian is a nationality, brah, you can be hawaiian. >> anthony: really, come on don't shit me now. >> hano-hano: they made us, they made us state, they made us. hawaiian is our blood. >> anthony: i have to be born here. this isn't, come on, this is a different story. >> hano-hano: wait a minute. i can give you the best explanation. because you cannot be our blood, our blood is kanaka, you cannot be kanaka. hawaiian is our nationality and you can pledge to be that. you see this what we're standing on. our ina, it matters so much that if you love this place and you don't wanna develop it, destroy it, abuse it. we're on the same team. >> eddie: that's hawaiian, yep. >> hano-hano: if you eyeing this place and its resources as a money making vehicle for yourself. we enemies, right? and it doesn't matter race, religion, what sex you. if you love this place and you can malama our ina the way we love it and our ancestors loved it, well, we can be more than friends, we can be family. i'm gonna aloha you. >> anthony: beautifully played, man. wow. >> hano-hano: that's it. >> man: right on. >> ritte: right on, bro. >> anthony: it's a pretty impressive spread of food for such a supposedly surely group. slow roasted pig, grilled kala fish, mullet, cooked lavalu style. and, of course, octopus, known as squid luau. fresh poi, you've got to have it fresh, believe me, it makes all the difference in the world. fresh water snails called, i believe, hihiwai. harvested from streams way up in the mountains. >> walter: it's a bounty. the bounty of our ocean and our mountain. that's squid, octopus, the one you caught. >> anthony: oh that's octopus! oh! hey! oh! >> eddie: was this the one, this is the one you bit it's eye. >> walter: right there, right there. >> anthony: i recognize you. ♪ ♪ >> hano-hano: anthony, when somebody steals this it's easy for us to say, "you're stealing our stuff." right? but all of this stuff is dependent on a healthy environment and ecosystem. >> anthony: all right, but, then let me ask you, just because i'm a bit of a dick. i have to ask this question. i have to ask! >> hano-hano: no, i, go for it. >> eddie: bring it on, bring it on. >> anthony: i have to ask, all right. so, we have, like, twelve more beers and i pull out some nice spam musubi. >> hano-hano: i would eat them, right? look at me, i would eat them. but that doesn't mean it's right and that doesn't mean that's what i'm gonna feed my children. our culture made everything we did the best of the best. hawaiians are the only ones that turned taro into poi. you know what i mean? we did everything to the best of the best, so if you're going to introduce spam to us, we'll do it the best. you introduce christianity to us we gonna do 'em the best. whatever you're gonna introduce to us, we're gonna do it the best! >> anthony: our christianity's better than yours, i love it. so, you've really disappointed me you have in no way lived up to your reputation as mean, unwelcoming, inward looking, hostile. admit it, it's a calculated strategy. >> hano-hano: yes. >> anthony: and i'll leave with a message. if you're watching this show i hope your heart is swelling with admiration. but bottom line, don't come here. >> group: yeah! ♪ ♪ ♪ -that's how a home and auto bundle is made. [ chuckles ] so, what are some key takeaways from this commercial? did any of you hear the "bundle your home and auto" part? -i like that, just not when it comes out of her mouth. -yeah, as a mother, i wouldn't want my kids to see that. -good mom. -to see -- wait. i'm sorry. what? -don't kids see enough violence as it is? -i've seen violence. -maybe we turn the word "bundle" into a character, like mr. bundles. -top o' the bundle to you. [ laughter ] bundle, bundle, bundle. -my kids would love that. -yeah. skip to the good part with alka-seltzer plus. now with 25% more concentrated power. nothing works faster for powerful cold relief. oh, what a relief it is! so fast! rowithout the commission fees and account minimums. so, you can start investing wherever you are - even on the bus. download now and get your first stock on us. robinhood. we chose eleanor. it was great-grandma's name. so we're in this little town near salerno and everyone has dad's eyebrows. help your family discover their unique story, with a gift from ancestry. >> anthony: the ocean is all around for thousands of miles. a humbling feeling knowing at all times that the ground upon which you live and walk and breathe is but a tiny spec in the middle of all this. so, in hawaii, the waterman is an important distinction. it expresses the shared consensus that you are able to handle yourself in the ocean no matter what it throws at you. it implies that you are capable of almost mythical things. the ability to live in the water, handle its many moods above or below the surface. meet uncle ross, waterman. a canoe surfing legend and generally accepted ambassador of the aloha spirit. he's offered to share with me a truly ancient hawaiian space found only on the face of a crashing wave. ♪ surfing, a life connected to the ocean, and spending time with family and friends on the beach are some of the cornerstones of hawaiian life. >> archie: and this is our chef. this is jason. >> jason: jason. >> anthony: how are you, man? >> archie: and, tony, that's keola. >> anthony: hey, how are ya? >> keola: all right. >> anthony: you good? >> keola: yes sir. >> archie: hilani. how are you? >> archie: keawe. >> anthony: what's going on? hi. >> archie: meghan. >> anthony: hello. >> archie: those are my two daughters, this is my wife alicia. >> anthony: why hello, hi. >> archie: brennan, come say hi. >> anthony: hey, brennan, how are ya? >> archie: and, uh, milton. this is milton. >> anthony: milton, good to meet you. so how, uh, how does everybody know each other here? >> archie: we live on an island, everybody knows everybody here. >> anthony: okay, that's true. why did i even ask? >> archie: it's just the way you roll. >> woman: i think i met uncle ross through the water. just surfing and then we became, like, family. >> ross: daughter. >> tiare: yeah and he's like my -- and he's like my dad. my ohana. >> anthony: each and every weekend uncle ross can be found here with his ohana, a hawaiian word that describes an extended circle of family and close friends. >> anthony: man, nice. they got lucky today. it's a beautiful day. >> archie: beautiful day, yep. >> ross: even when it's storming it's nice on the beach. >> anthony: yeah. >> ross: yeah. and we'll stay here until that thing goes down. hits the horizon. [ laughter ] when that sun hits the horizon it's, that's time to go home. >> anthony: maui is an island as beautiful as it gets. and, sure it's got its share of portion controlled cruise line entertainments doled out in digestible bites and complementary mai-tais. but, you'll also find the sort-of beloved, indigenous institution like tasty crust, as local a place as you're likely to find. >> anthony: daniel ikaika ito will explain. >> daniel: this is a menu situation, or i can order for you if you trust me. i think we're gonna hook you up with, uh, the local flavor, so -- >> anthony: okay, i trust you. raised on the big island, he's a journalist, the first native hawaiian editor of a major surf publication, and founder of the local "contrast" magazine. >> daniel: local culture is, very much so, trying to point a finger at anybody coming in going, "hey you're a haole, you don't belong." and, therein kinda lies a little conflict you have being a modern day hawaiian. and i still think that's something that we forget about these days is how educated and how accepting our kupuna, our ancesters, were. it was always built on inclusivity, aloha. >> anthony: mhmm. >> daniel: aloha is giving without expecting anything in return. you got this hawaiian culture that was a product of the polynesians that populated the islands. then you got this local culture that's a product of the plantation lifestyle. so, the japanese, the chinese, the koreans, the filipinos, the portuguese. >> anthony: if indeed all history can be explained by what's on your plate, this is a prime example. behold, the plate lunch. the most identifiable, and essential feature of the plate lunch is this. a big scoop, or two, of white rice and potato mac salad. there is nothing more hawaiian. served alongside a protein like chicken katsu. or this hamburger steak, burger-like patty drowned in dark, sinister, sticky, shiny gravy. or, furikake ahi, seared ahi with nori and sesame seed. >> daniel: oh my gosh, that looks beautiful. >> anthony: oh yeah, that's gonna work. oh. all right. i sit this right on top of the rice? >> daniel: yeah, yep. you want to get some mac salad too on there too. >> anthony: gonna get that sinister gravy on. oh, dude. look what we're eating. >> daniel: right, yeah. >> anthony: okay, they may not be hawaiian but they are now. they are fundamentally local. i mean, this food, this most delicious, let's be honest, delicious. this is not healthy eating. >> daniel: yeah, and we're kind of paying the price for it right now in the health of the state, which is terrible. as i take a bite of hamburger and brown gravy. >> anthony: yeah but it's, like i said, it's so good. >> daniel: if you really want to do hawaii right you gotta give back. and that's a power that hawaii and the ina still has is if you show aloha and you give without asking the ina is going to recognize it and it's gonna shower its blessings upon you. >> anthony: so, you think traditional hawaiian culture and lifestyle has a chance against the modern world? >> daniel: i think so. the beautiful part about my ancestors is they realized there is a limited number of resources where they lived so they observed nature to the best possible they could to figure out what were the cycles and how do we preserve this resource. hawaiian culture can teach the whole world something that it needs to know is we all live on an island. and we are all part of the same community. let's all show aloha to the ina and let's show aloha to everybody else as well. so is t-mobile's newest, holidad most powerful signal. and we want to keep you connected to those you love, with the new iphone 11. so t-mobile is giving you an iphone 11 on us for each new line of unlimited. for yourself, or up to a family of four. keep your family connected, and hurry into t-mobile today, to get up to four iphone 11's on us. only at t-mobile. i'm max, i was diagnosed with aplastic anemia and if i didn't find a donor, i probably wouldn't be here right now. be the match uses the power of the cisco network to match donors with patients faster than ever, saving lives like max's. me and dylan are dna twins. ♪ ♪ dylan's like my brother. ♪ ♪ cisco. the bridge to possible. ♪ >> anthony: an extraordinary man lives in this house. shep gordon, longtime resident on maui, legendary talent manager, maybe you know some of the people whose careers he's looked after. alice cooper, teddy pendergrass, luther vandross, blondie, pink floyd. he was years, years, ahead of the chef explosion. sheparding emeril through his early career. he's produced films, worked alongside great french chefs like roger verge. become close to his holiness the dalai lama. basically done everything with everybody in every place. >> shep: i first got here forty years ago. i put one foot on the island and knew i was living here the rest of my life. >> anthony: do you ever look out there and it's just, it's wallpaper? >> shep: never, ever. i say it out loud every day. yeah, my first words in the morning are, "thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you." every day. >> anthony: shep is famously one of the most generous and enthusiastic of hosts. a more stand-up, loyal guy you could barely imagine. and it's no wonder they call the documentary based on his life "supermensch." that's how he's known around the world. here here's known as "that guy who throws great parties." >> anthony: prep starts early. with shep's friend julio, a maui born and bred rancher. with help from local chef sheldon simeon. middle of the night and a traditional imu is dug. filled with lava rocks, the fire allowed to burn down to coals before the pig, wrapped in a combination of banana leaves and tea leaves, is dropped in. >> julio: okay, you guys ready for the unveiling? here we go. all right. >> anthony: twelve hours later you dig 'em up and, well, it's party time. >> anthony: so what you've been saying is you've been drinking steadily since five o'clock this morning. >> sheldon: i didn't say. it didn't come out of my mouth. it just -- >> anthony: behold the magnificence. it's a very important part of your childhood. dun-dun-dun-dun-dun. wow, look at that. you could just lift those bones out by hand. >> julio: yep. shep, ready? >> anthony: whoa, you just dump them into a bucket. awesome. wow. wow, that's pretty much the way i want to end up. just be able to pour me right into a pot. there's lots to do and everyone pitches in to help. it's an extended all day affair of prepping, chopping, dicing, slicing, mixing. and of course, there's some sampling along the way. like this wild pig sausage that someone was nice enough to stop by with. sheldon works up a potato-mac salad. >> shep: you not gonna do it? >> sheldon: one more time! >> shep: okay, hittin' ya one more time. >> anthony: julio carves up some unicorn fish which he caught himself earlier in the day. chef mark tarbell stuffs a couple of fresh red snappers before throwing them in the oven. there's poi pounded fresh out back. and somewhere, somewhere pig's foot soup is happily bubbling away. >> man: here try this chili pepper water. >> julio: chili pepper water. >> anthony: wait a minute, why do i want to do this? there's chili pepper water, used for dipping or taken as an auxiliary shot for regularity or boner medicine or whatever. oh yeah, there's also spam noodles. there is no party without spam. by dinnertime the beer, wine, and festive beverages have been flowing for hours. also, moods have been adjusted in a completely natural way indigenous to the islands, of course. >> shep: how about julio and the pigs? >> anthony: i cooked a lot of pigs. i've never seen one poured into a pot neatly. >> julio: that's what i love. this is what we do in the islands. that's what it's all about. >> shep: and always bring the ohana. bring the family, bring the kids, you know? you rarely ever see a party where there aren't kids. >> anthony: ohana means -- >> willie: family. >> anthony: how -- >> shep: extended family. >> anthony: extended family. >> shep: yeah, like you're now ohana to everybody here. >> willie: ohana means if you won't be offended if we came to borrow money from you. [ laughter ] >> anthony: and, as happens, i've come to find out, things end up in the most natural just kind of happens way. song and some dancing. ♪ >> anthony: this is willie k. and that's his daughter lisette. and it's pretty damn captivating. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: it's getting near the end for me. i look over at shep and i see a happy man surrounded by friends, by family, really. his ohana. ♪ ♪ s like kate. a former army medic, made of the flexibility to handle whatever monday has in store and tackle four things at once. so when her car got hit, she didn't worry. she simply filed a claim on her usaa app and said... i got this. usaa insurance is made the way kate needs it - easy. she can even pick her payment plan so it's easy on her budget and her life. usaa. what you're made of, we're made for. usaa plaque psoriasis uncoverth clearer skin that can last. in fact, tremfya® was proven superior to humira® in providing significantly clearer skin. tremfya® may increase your risk of infections and lower your ability to fight them. tell your doctor if you have an infection or symptoms or if you had a vaccine or plan to. serious allergic reactions may occur. tremfya®. uncover clearer skin that can last. janssen can help you explore cost support options. robinwithout the commission fees. so, you can start investing today wherever you are - even hanging with your dog. so, what are you waiting for? download now and get your first stock on us. robinhood. >> nainoa: to be hawaiian, to me, means to be some kind of sense of connection to place and sense of responsibility for it. it should be about being honest to a place and being honest to what you love and be honest to what you value. it's a road that's constantly trying to be more and more informed. i don't even know, sometimes, how to be fully honest because i don't know enough. what i love about the ocean is that's my pathway. that i go on the oceans to seek that sense of truth. ♪ >> anthony: they said i could see whales, like, close up. and i had reasons for optimism. all week i've been staring out to sea watching humpback whales leaping out of the ocean, spouting and frolicking. so, are things, compared to other parts of the world, are conservations efforts as far as, uh, marine mammals in general, but whales in particular, going well? is this a -- >> joe: that's the one thing on the planet that is. they're talking about taking humpbacks off the endangered species list. but it's good to hear that they recovered, but then it may make it easy to add to the whaling list again. >> anthony: it's mating season in hawaii for the nearly 10,000 humpback whales that migrate down from southeast alaska each year. doctor joe mobley of the university of hawaii has dedicated his career to studying these whales. >> joe: yeah, i guess the song is supposed to be, like, the most complex display in the animal kingdom. when you're close to a singer you can actually feel it through your whole body. it's like a 185 db, really loud. wow. >> anthony: they don't mind us at all do they? ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> swimmer: oh, we got it. that was amazing. that was incredible. >> anthony: that was unbelievable. >> bondi: one of our roles here has always been to take away excess money from people who don't know what to do with it, who can't think of a better idea about how to spend their money. in the old days, the mechanism for doing that was you'd throw it on a table. put that into the context of throwing away a bottle of 7-up at a club, that's only just slightly more honest about it. >> anthony: if you're talking crass commercialism, in the very best sense of the word -- this is it. is it the cultural center of the country? we may not want to think it is, but is it? >> bondi: what is the rest of the country? i don't know but it's that place where they all leave and come
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