BBCNEWS Surfings Dirty Secrets June 4, 2024 03:32:00
So, um, some hairy moments, a lot of boards flying around and i was quite worried, but im going to get back into surfing, get back on my board and i will do it better this time, try and be sustainable and green, and see what i can find out. because all of this is a world away from surfings origins. riding waves was once a sacred practice. in ancient hawaii it was a way for men and women to praise the ocean gods. surfing struggled through colonisation, but by the 1920s the so—called king of sur...
Source: archive.org