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Mamá Reyna and crew at Veracruz All Natural.
Courtesy of Veracruz All Natural
Yolanda Guerrero, a taquera with mostly silver hair neatly pulled back and covered by a hairnet, is standing in the doorway of her East Austin taco trailer, Tacos Guerrero. She’s recounting how she got into the food business. In the 1990s, Guerrero beat a hundred other competitors in a cooking contest in her native Monterrey, Mexico. Her winning array of dishes included fluffy, orangey-red rice, chiles rellenos, and half a cabrito (milk-fed kid goat). Guerrero worked at restaurants and cleaned houses and food trucks before her son bought her a trailer in 2016. “You don’t need to work for anyone else anymore,” she remembers him saying proudly.
Santos Tacos s pupusas topped with curtido.
Photograph by José R. Ralat
Before each Crowley High School football game, Maggie Santos would tell her sons, Matthew and Michael, “If you beat this team, I’ll feed you.” Most of the time she was joking as a way to encourage her boys. She got more serious in 2012, when Matthew was a freshman and the team made the playoffs after an undefeated season. That led to a series of feasts during the playoffs for which she’d happily rustle up chili con carne–topped cheese enchiladas, flautas, fajitas, pollo asado, and tamales
for more than eighty players, team staff, and family members. “We made five hundred tamales for one night,” she says. Sometimes, Santos would have to take the day off from her job as a secretary at Crowley ISD, but she didn’t mind. “I love to cook!” was a line she repeated throughout an interview with
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