The beginner and the philosophy of surfing
April 28, 2021 |
Surfing
After I had established a regular program for my return to surfing, I found things entirely different from the few days spent with [German photographer] Hanns Hubmann.
For the first month, I was still pretty weak, but I was stimulated by the competition from Larry and George, who were getting better fast.
I learned again that paddling was half the battle and that to paddle properly, you had to have the board at just the right angle, or it will not glide.
This is a few degrees above the horizontal.
If it is lower than this, the nose will go under, and if it is much higher, paddling is very difficult.