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Shane Dorian: the versatile and fearless Hawaiian surfer surfertoday.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from surfertoday.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.
Shane Dorian Talks Near-Drowning at Oahu Outer Reef
Dorian on an early foray into deep water with Todd Chesser and Brock Little
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“I remember getting hucked over the lip, and trying to get a big breath of air as I went down…”
Yeah, you can guess where this story is going. Before Shane Dorian was the big-wave superstar he is today, he was a grom. And while he was a grom, the late legends Todd Chesser and Brock Little took him out to one of Oahu’s Outer Reefs in 25-foot surf. Needless to say, the experience stuck with him. As Brock told him later that night: “Today you realized you can die doing this. This is the real deal.” Hit play to hear the whole story. (And click here for their whole conversation. Hero photo by Keoki.)