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Atlantic’s Amanda Mull, an astute observer of modern life who writes about everything from pandemic-related restaurant guidelines to the difference between feeling safe and being safe, tweeted the following bit of gastronomic romanticism in late January: “Waited a little over an hour outside in line in a wind chill of like 30 this morning to get a very trendy breakfast burrito and somehow the burrito did end up being so good that I am not even mad about it.” The venue in question, burrito connoisseurs will instantly know, was Ursula, chef Eric See’s takeout spot famous for flour tortillas rolled around fluffy eggs, crispy hash browns, and enough Hatch chiles to make you feel like you accidentally swallowed a hand warmer.