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With a mountain to climb after Covid, this old-school Snowdonia hotel is still drawing on its Everest links

Something is missing in the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel – George. That’s the name of a shrunken head from Peru, which I remember seeing in the Smoke Room a decade ago. It’s just as well it’s gone – such a grisly trophy had surely outlived its shock value – but it’s also a surprise. To quote the Talking Heads song, the PyG is a heaven “where nothing/ nothing ever happens”. Yet something has happened and someone’s head has disappeared.  This creeper-smot...
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