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Restaurants and the pandemic: What it took, and what it cost, to survive

When the D.C. Burmese restaurant Thamee closed in March 2020 at the onset of the pandemic, its owners didn’t know if they’d ever open their 1-year-old business again. They had just had their first five straight weeks of profitability when D.C. shut down in-person dining for the first time, and though they had a lot of momentum behind them the restaurant had recently been named a semifinalist for the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant they didn’t feel equipped to transform their upscale dine-in business into a carryout and delivery joint. At the time, co-owner Eric Wang told me that if Thamee was still shut down by June, he’d place the restaurant’s chances of survival around 50 percent.

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