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William Sitwell reviews The Charlton Arms, Ludlow: Heaven s gates opened with a perfect chicken Kiev

The fish soup was impeccable, says William There was a time when my insecurities meant I was terrified to dine out alone. If I sat at a table for one in a restaurant, I knew, just knew, that people, everyone, on every other table all had their eyes on me, conspiring in the view of what a loser I was. ‘Pity that poor Billy No-Mates, eating on his own,’ they were saying. Such was the cacophony of this imaginary chorus that I almost felt compelled to go around telling everyone that I was fine, that honestly, really, I had chosen to be on my own, this was my treat to myself, I’ve got plenty of friends, too many of the damn folk to be honest, ha, ha, ha.

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