This food-friendly white deserves a seat at the table
Credit: Paul Bradbury
Given its high-summer honeysuckle scent and juicy apricot flavour laced with orange blossom, it’s surprising viognier is not more popular. It is well-liked but rarely seems to be the go-to, number one, must-buy white for many in the way that sauvignon blanc, chardonnay or even (often dull) pinot grigio are.
It could be that it falls into the “richer white” category, and so may be suspected of being on the sweet side (it’s not, usually finishing quite dry, although it can have a slightly honeyed perfume), or over-oaky (no worries, as viognier is generally not aged in barrel and, even if it is, it majors on bright fruit instead.)
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The Telegraph s top 25 restaurants for dining indoors this summer
There’s no substitute for the buzz of a restaurant dining room, and these are the favourites we ll be racing to visit once more
17 May 2021 • 12:20pm
Telegraph writers and chefs reveal the top restaurants they can t wait to visit now they ve reopened
Credit: Magdelen Arms; Brasserie Zédel; London Photography Company; Milo Brown
Right, where were we? Can you remind me? Ah, yes – restaurants! I remember them. Or rather, I remember what they used to be. Whether it was a big, blousy room putting on a seamless show even as it allowed the diners to take centre stage, or a self-consciously curated little space in which the punters’ intimacy with the process was essentially what made the food enjoyable, I remember the way that good (and, indeed, less good) restaurants used to make me feel: thoroughly, in-the-moment alive. Which feels like a lifetime ago, does it not?