A wave to oneself: What price paradise? : vimarsana.com

A wave to oneself: What price paradise?


May 17, 2021 |
Surfing
My scalp prickles, and I glance back at the jungle. My mind is suddenly thick with panic.
I'm convinced that Joro is about to explode out of the trees, his bow raised.
Looking down at the clothes and water in my hands, I realize that I have to get rid of them before anyone sees them, and I stash them all in the jungle beside the outboard motor and petrol tanks and pull the palms back over it all.
Then I return to the beach and sit on the sand, forcing myself to take deep breaths until I calm down a bit.

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