There has always been something magical about the East Sea. In the 19th century it was the hunting grounds for Western whalers. In Korean legend it was the domain of water ghosts and mermaids. And in modern history it was the final stage for the 1904-05 Russo-Japanese War. Many years ago, it was my favorite place to get away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. Of course, during the summers, finding a place of peaceful solitude was nearly impossible as the beaches were filled with frolicking families, mischievous schoolboys and the occasional military patrol.