There are some food products, like white sugar or baking soda, that don't vary a whole lot from producer to producer. And there are some, like chocolate bars or roasted peanuts, that do. But there is an elusive third category of products: Those that vary a lot from producer to producer, and make other categories of food taste better. Good olive oil falls into this third group—it's an ingredient with a wide gap between OK and stellar, one that can upgrade whatever it touches. There's nothing quite like a good olive oil for enhancing pasta, beans, poached fish, and so many other dishes. Better still, there's nothing like a good olive oil that doesn't cost much. And this is where we need to discuss the Trader Joe's Sicilian Selezione Extra Virgin Olive Oil, a product that deserves a spot in the TJ's hall of fame.