hometown and they will tell, "well, we had a really good day in wuppertal." they sing in german. i'm using the deutschlandticket to head north now, out of germany's cities and to its coast. horn blares. in the summer, the trains up here get busy with beach—lovers, but the sunshine and crowds have thinned a little by the time i arrive. oh, wow, ok — very, very windy. and this is schleswig—holstein, in the northwest of germany. any further north, and i'll be