Also, its about france, and a lot of other chefs, and a culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of gastronomy. Its about a family tree, about the trunk from which many branches grew. And its about food, lots of food. Great food, some of the greatest food on earth. I took a walk through this beautiful world felt the cool rain on my shoulder found something good in this beautiful world i felt the rain getting colder sha, la, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la anthony what is it exactly about this place . Over the past century, the system here, the tradition, whatever it is that took hold here, churned out a tremendous number of the worlds most important chefs point, chapel, troisgros, bocuse. And as importantly, influenced nearly all the rest of them. Why lyon . Why is this such a gastronomic capital though. I mean, why bocuse here, why troisgros here, why all of these great chefs . Daniel because lyon is its really positioned between the north and the south. You are locked in between burgundy and rome. Anthony lyon, its the second largest city in france, situated in the southeast of the country, midway between the alps in the east and the mediterranean to the south. Daniel this was also a bottleneck when cars began their mode of transportation. Anthony it goes right to the heart of the idea of the michelin. Driving the destination on the way to the daniel completely. Anthony out of that system came chefs like this guy, daniel boulud. Like prince or madonna, he needs only really one name. In new york, or anywhere in the chef world daniel. The name of his threestar eponymous restaurant in manhattan, one of many, in an empire that stretches from london to singapore. He came from here, a farm outside the city of lyon, through the citys great kitchens, to le cirque in new york, then his flagship. So when did you start working with food . Daniel 14 years old. 1969. Anthony uhhuh. Daniel i started as an apprentice in lyon. Anthony he started as so many french cooks of his time did at the very bottom. As a 14yearold apprentice in the restaurant nandron. What was your first job in the kitchen . Daniel they used to call me the beaver because i was just washing everything all day. You know, they make you clean the vegetables, they make you carry all the boxes from the market. Anthony 14, you cant do that anymore, can you . Daniel i dont think they can make him work 12 hours a day. Anthony right. Daniel and uh, pay him maybe a buck a month. You know what i mean . Anthony ah, the good ol days. Daniel yeah, well. Anthony why lyon . Why here . Look at the fundamentals, the things the lyonnais think of as birthrights. The right for instance to eat delicious cured pork in unimaginably delicious forms. Daniel the art of charcuterie, lyonnais cant live without it. Anthony look at this. Terrine, pate, sausages, rillette, its an art thats revered here and widely enjoyed. Daniel Monsieur Reynon. Reynon bonjour. Daniel merci. Tony. Anthony bonjour, monsieur. Tony. Chef tony. Anthony and few names garner more respect from aficionados of pig than reynon. [ reynon speaking french ] daniel 20 20 ton of saucisson just inside this room. The holiday are coming, and theyre going mad with the production of saucisson. Anthony in a relentlessly cold room, pork shoulder, belly, and fatback are fed in batches through a vertical chopper. A sprinkling of seasoning and spices. Chef oui. Anthony removed in large balls of finely, but not too finely, chopped meat. You do not want to get your hand caught in one of these things. Then mixed to a smooth perfection with a dough hook. Daniel madhouse. Anthony lot of work. Spread out and layered for consistent seasoning, formed into shapes, and smacked to remove air bubbles. Daniel make sure the meat gets really tight. Anthony into the Sausage Machine and piped into organic casings. Trust me, it aint easy. Daniel no, no, no, tony. Very light touch. Anthony lets see there, wise guy, come on. Lets see this. Thats how you get pregnant. Daniel its all in the meat. Just release at the end. Anthony its a serious work place, but with production nearly done, this being france and all, its time for a snack and some wine. Im doing what im good at eating. Reynon this is the saucisson a cuire. Anthony this is so good. [ reynon speaking french ] anthony sabodet, another of lyons most famous sausages, is made primarily from pigs head, with pork belly, pork shoulder, brandy, nutmeg, and allspice mixed in for flavor. Its always cooked, served hot . Daniel yeah. Anthony man, thats good. Daniel thats what were gonna eat with my father. Anthony oh yeah . Daniel im gonna get some here of the skin. [ reynon speaking french ] anthony he knows he does really good work. Daniel uhhuh. Anthony he knows how good his stuff is, you know. Cheers. Oh nice, uh its a Beautiful Day in lyon. Daniel yeah. Anthony in lyon, a city that believes absolutely in the power of food, one name is everywhere. A name that brought honor, attention, and millions of visitors to the city. Though there have been many chef heroes in the annals of gastronomy, in lyon, and even across france, one name stands above all others. Murals, bridges, markets, casual brasseries, the name of Monsieur Paul is everywhere. But one of his most enduring institutions is this linstitut bocuse. One of the nations great culinary schools. [ chef speaking french ] anthony now, just to give you an idea of the standards here, the kind of traditional dishes baseline oldschool fundamentals youre expected to master before you move on in becoming a Creative Genius all your own meet these guys. [ chefs speaking french ] Anthony Mathieu viannay, joseph viola, and the institutes top dog, alain le cossec. Chefs and m. O. F. S all. Otherwise known as mofs. Pretty much pay your flight home, private. Master chefs. Daniel every four years they have this m. O. F. Competition. Anthony m. O. F. Is . Daniel Meilleur Ouvrier de france. Anthony the Master Craftsman of france. Daniel theres about 30 discipline of craftsmen, where you can acquire the m. O. F. Anthony see that red, white, and blue around their necks . That means they made it through the brutally, unreasonably rigorous competition that pits hundreds of top chefs against each other, where only a handful survive. Daniel so theres basically four or five every four years. Anthony certified by the highest in the land as being at the very top of the top of their professions. Mof challenges often include ultra oldschool classics, not unlike the one were making today. Poularde en vessie. Thick slices of Black Truffle are slipped under the skin of a chicken from bresse, the rolls royce of chickens. Its then tied, slipped inside a pigs bladder, and steamed in Court Bouillon until tender. Daniel the idea is to concentrate the flavor of truffle inside the bladder. The dish they choose, its always in reference to a chef of the past. This was a dish La Mere Brazier was doing. Anthony the at times brutal world of the Michelin Star Kitchen looks much of the time like a boys club, but where did they come from . If we track back a bit to where it all began for lyon and for many of the chefs whose names we now know and look up to, it all goes back to here. La mere brazier, the godmother, the original master. Teacher, chef, force. Two restaurants with Three Michelin Stars. An achievement, no one, male or female, had ever attained, and for many years, lyons most famous chef. Her influence runs right through every kitchen thats come since, and her graduates carry on her recipes and her traditions. This was one of hers, a signature. Daniel for the next hour, you keep putting hot bouillon like this. The most miserable thing is when the bladder explode. Anthony its never a good thing when a bladder explodes. Daniel as the chicken cook, the bladder start to really expand. You have to talk to your bladder. Anthony i do all the time, believe me. Please hold up, please hold up. Not here. People are looking. Wait till you get in between cars. A rather luxurious sauce of more, much more, Black Truffle and generous amounts of foie gras and triple cream. Perfect. Nice milkshake. Slightly pink around the legs but cooked through. The flesh perfumed by the generous slices of truffle. Who gets to eat like this . We do. Daniel how is it, tony . Anthony it is divine. Daniel see the perfect balance in the sauce . If i was a chicken, thats the way i would like to end up. Anthony even if i werent a chicken i would want to go like this. Die surrounded by truffles and foie gras and fine wine. 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Ask your doctor about otezla today. customer save yourself . money with farmers. burke thats not wrong. When you bundle your home and auto policies with farmers, you save yourself up to twenty percent. customer thats something. burke get a whole lot of something with farmers. Kinda creepy. We are farmers. Bumpadum, bumbumbumbum [ coughing sneezing ] [ Door Knocking ] dude, you coming . Because the only thing dripping should be your style plop plop fizz fizz, Winter Warriors with alkaseltzer plus cold flu relief. [ thunder ] anthony the roaring of a powerful engine, the screech of rubber, and off we go. Kings of the road in our citroen de chevaux. Twohorsepower classic. No power steering, huh . Its like a toy car. Were going back in time a bit, to the area where daniel grew up. Where life was very different from new york. Were you the misfit of the family . Rebellious or . Daniel i was i was quite rebellious. My parents were talking to me about the idea of taking over the farm. As the oldest son, that would have been the logical thing. Anthony right. But the farmers life was not for you. Daniel no. Anthony he grew up in a true farm family. You milked the cows, tended the animals. Daniel claims he never even saw processed food until he was a teenager. Daniel what happened . Anthony uhoh. [ engine dies ] [ horn honking ] [ man in truck speaking french ] daniel throw it in the garbage, your car. Anthony a brief respite by the side of the road and some passersby are apparently less appreciative of fine automobiles than we are. A short consultation with an automotive professional, and were back on the road. Back, in this case, to school. This was daniels Old Elementary School in the nearby town of saintpierredechandieu. [ bell rings ] im automatically taken back to memories of my own school days. The smell of caustic pine cleaner, chalkboards, and fear. The cruel ministrations of tinyeyed lunch Ladies Slopping canloads of prison chow into steam tables. Chipped beef, tuna noodle surprise, and powdered Mashed Potatoes that haunt my sense memories still. Daniel pumpkin soup today. With, uh, onion, nutmeg, and chicken stock. But basic, good pumpkin soup. Anthony this is marie head chef, cook, host, and server for 320 hungry and very discriminating French School children ages 3 to 12. On the Menu Prix Fixe today, a pumpkin soup, a Fresh Blanquette De Poisson with white wine, vanilla, and shallot. Served with homemade couscous, and a sauce supreme. And this is a very sophisticated meal for for children. Daniel thats a nice meal. Anthony i was a little shit in school, frankly. And like a lot of the other students, we were like, and i want pizza, pizza, pizza. Are the children here daniel les enfants. Anthony open to variety . [ marie speaking french ] daniel she wants to make sure that they always get a little challenged by how the food looks and the smell and also the taste after. I think she has a very strict budget. Anthony in the usa, greatest country in the world, no doubt, we spend an average of 2. 75 per student for Public School lunch. Compare and contrast. [ marie speaking french ] daniel a dollar fifty. Anthony did you eat this well when you were here . Daniel absolutely. Anthony je mappelle tony. Bonjour. Bonjour. Daniel bonjour, daniel, ca vas . Anthony the kids attack their food like hungry trenchermen, wiping out three servings in the time it takes me to eat one. I guess they like it. Its good. Daniel delicious. Anthony yeah, this is good. Daniel i tell you, i dont think my chef in new york would do better. Anthony i love that they cooked with wine too. Youre going to jail for that in the states. Daniel exactly, in making the sauce. Anthony crap, these kids eat fast. Look at how fast this kid eats. Turn your head, theyll eat your soup right out of your plate. My school lunchroom, you pushed up your tray, just like in prison, bob, move it along. Bop, move it along. Daniel yeah, here they come they come to you and serve you. Most important thing that we see here is the love marie gives to the food she makes and to the kids she serves. I think it has a lot to do with the reaction they have to food. Anthony dessert is homemade Fromage Blanc farmer cheese, with chocolate and orange segments. Daniel what do you want to be when you grow up . Veterinarian. [ boy speaking french ] daniel fireman. [ Daniel Speaking French ] [ boy speaking french ] daniel engineering machine gun. Anthony he wants to make machine guns . Daniel engineer engineering machine gun, yeah. Anthony okay, keep an eye on that one. All right. For a dope fiend, Feeding The Monkey means finding and sticking with heroin. For one poor guy, its this. French food. In particular, lyonnais food. The Cautionary Tale of bill buford. Writer, editor, Literary Lion with a perfectly good job as Fiction Editor at the prestigious new yorker magazine. At undignified age of 53, he pretty much pulled up stakes, put his whole past life on hold, and defected to france to learn how to cook. What happened to you anyway, buford . You used to have a good job, you hang out a couple of nights with batali and the next thing you know youre living in france and cooking. Bill its true. I discovered a whole world that the rest of the world didnt seem to know about. Just a very compressed, intense lifelong learned expertise and knowledge of food. Its not the food network, and its not glossy magazines, and its not something youd get from reading a recipe book. Its something you get by just going deep. I was afraid of france because i knew if i went, took on the subject of french food, id have to go really deep. So we went, and we thought wed stay for six months. And we we stayed for five years. Anthony we meet at bouchon comptoir abel. A bouchon is a uniquely lyonnais institution. A casual laidback kind of pub bistro with a limited, usually oldschool menu and always, always an unpretentious vibe. People come here to unwind, to relax, and to eat with abandon. So you say outright, recently, in one of your published works that lyon is better than paris. Bill lyon is a dark, tragic, beautiful, welleating city. And everybody here knows that they have a really good life, and they dont give a flying fig if anybody else knows about it. cause they dont actually want visitors. Anthony if you were to pick one iconic dish to represent the bouchon lyonnais, it would have to be the quenelles de brochet. A not particularly fabulous river fish pike folded into a light dough, like pate a choux, until fluffy and airy but still rich. Adrift in a rich, creamy, almost bisquelike nantua sauce made with crayfish, creme fraiche, white wine, and a splash of brandy. Pretty amazing for really one of the worlds less wonderful fish. Bill its kind of a nice mix of france and italy. Daniel cheers. Anthony cheers, guys. Bill cheers, gentlemen. Anthony good to see you. Bill what a treat to meet together in lyon. Something like A Hundred Bucks a window when other guys were charging four to fivehundred bucks. He just didnt wanna do that. He was proud of the price he was charging. My dad instilled in me, always put the people before the money. Be proud