Place that i was born. Far both geographically and spiritually. Your stella, miss. To leave it behind. Thank you wild night, huh . White russian . Nah, gary, gimme a stella arttoes. I talk took a walk through this beautiful world excuse me. Good choice. Felt the cool rain on my shoulder well, changing can do a little good. Dude abides. Perhaps something good in this beautiful world i felt the rain getting colder shalalala shalalalala shalalala shalalalala tangier, its morocco. But from 1923 through 1956, it was loosely governed by the major powers, an international zone. For years, it seemed, everything was permitted. Nothing was forbidden. At the northern tip of africa, a short ferry hop from spain, tangier was a magnet for writers, remittance men, spies and artists. Mno kidding. Rd. But moving your internet and tv . Thats easy. If you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind easy . easy . Easy. Because now xfinity lets you transfer of sex that was frowned upon at home and an affordable lifestyle your Service Online in just about a minute set against an exotic with a few simple steps. Really . Really. Background, tangier was for you. That was easy. Yup. Plus, with twohour appointment windows, its all on your schedule. Awesome. Now all you have to do is move. That thing. [ sigh ] matisse, genest, william introducing an easier way to move with xfinity. Burroughs. Its just another way were working to make your life simple, easy, awesome. Many have come this way, staying go to xfinity. Com moving to get started. A while or hanging around. But no one stayed longer or became more associated with tangier than the novelist and composer paul bowles. In works like the sheltering sky he created a romantic vision of tangier that persists even today, a dream thats become almost inseparable in the minds of many from reality. Im here to find that dream city. Anthony paul bowles lived in tangier for over 50 years and the place burroughs referred to Cherie Nutting was part of his as interzone. Inner circle near the end of his life. She was his friend, recordkeeper of sorts, and photographer. You arrived, when . Cherie i came in the 70s, but i went down to marrakesh. Anthony mmmhm. Cherie and then, in 86, i wrote a letter to paul bowles and said i had to meet him and take his picture. And he wrote back and he said, come and visit. Well, i never left. Anthony like, a lot of tangier like i said was a city of expats people with pasts, people came here to live that dream or to live that life. Uh, has the reality come to resemble his perception of the people who simply didnt like reality, or . Where they were and craved cherie the tangier that i see is paul bowles, and i still see it. I still feel it. You can still find the magic. Somewhere and something else. The grand socco is the gateway anthony the market, or souk, in tangier, is one of the best to the medina where you could find the kasbah, which means in all morocco. Fortress, by the way. The food stalls and vendors are still pretty impressive. The port is to the east, and right in the middle of it all, wander the markets long enough and youre sure to stumble across the unexpected. Hooves . Sure. How about a lambs head . The petit socco, called the last spot, the meeting place, the switchboard of tangier. Here, nothing goes to waste. Charbroiled to crispy burnt reasons for settling in tangier perfection, the meat is scraped off and served on a crusty lunch diverge, but everyone sooner or bread. Later, since the beginning of memory comes to cafe tingis. Not so adventurous . The grand soccos indoor market Jonathan Dawson came to this offers a variety of smoked, cured, and fresh meat. City over 20 years ago as a it smells good in here. This stuff looks good. Journalist and he never left. Oh, ive heard this cheese is he lives a life not too distant amazing. Cherie its good, yeah. From burroughs fantasy. Anthony could i have one . Cake and tea at 4 00 every day served by his man servant. A berber favorite, fresh goat he may not have a gazelle, but a cheese wrapped in palm leaves. Cherie yeah, theyre beautiful, arent they . Pet rooster will do. And every day he makes the anthony its good . Rounds of the cafes, seeing all the old faces, ending up sooner a little cheese, a little or later here. Flatbread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. This is the petit socco . This is the petit socco. We are headed into the jibala foothills of the rif mountain yes. Range. It existed in venetian times, about 85 kilometers south of existed in roman times, in the tangier to a place called jajouka. Portuguese times and the english were here for 22 years and then the International City until the village is home to the people of the ahlsrif tribe, 1956, now here. This is a very historic square. Very historic. Which loosely translated means the saintly people. As a writer, ive noticed everybody who comes here to do the article does the same jajouka is also home to one of article. It is so damn boring. Moroccos better known musicians, bachir attar. Theyre all the beat generation and there are lots of other stories in morocco apart from jazz and rock and roll musicians that, but everyone likes the beats. Have traveled from all over the world to jajouka to meet this guy. Bachir is part of a lineage of master musicians all from this small mountain village. Bill burr boroughs and all that stuff williams, they were all here, but thats a small part of the moroccan history. Famously dubbed as a thats a 15year page. There was a life before that and 4,000yearold rock band by a life after that. Youre here. William burroughs, bachir, his yeah. Son and these musicians maintain it was inevitable. Lets pretend those guys never one of the oldest stillliving came. What is this place . Musical traditions on earth. The reality is, you can read the story and live it. People do come here and try to live it, but they dont stay very long. They smoke a little dope, go to a cheap hotel and go home with bedbugs. And a great story. And a great story. The attitude here is different than other parts of morocco. Anthony were invited for i think they have a higher tolerance of tradition of bad or dinner. [ laughter ] its family style, of course. Outrageous behavior. They have a high tolerance of mad people, you know . Beginning with braga, like a kefta pocket. Handformed envelopes of dough but moroccans essentially are filled with seasoned beef, baked very tolerant people. Until golden, then crisped in they quite like madness, as oil. Well. They kind of celebrate that a bit. You know . How moroccan is tangier . Im good for now. Its a moroccan city with a european outlook. Well, one more. You can stand up on the bachir mmm. Anthony uh oh, here we go. The main event tagine of boulevard and see spain and gibraltar and see all sorts of chicken. People passing through, but it is a very moroccan city. Im 62 years old. Bachir yeah, welcome, tony. Anthony thank you. I didnt know International Days which finished in 1956, but at just gorgeous. That time, i think europeans may have outnumbered moroccans in the center of this city. Its not the case now. Theres very few europeans actually living here full time. The notion of living a life first, chopped onions, garlic, apart, of being somewhere else, parsley and turmeric are blended with olive oil. There are those who like that the bird is generously coated feeling. And stuffed. Then after simmering in a touch i like that feeling. Of olive oil and water, the chicken is fried till crispy. Then there are those who may live apart, may live somewhere else, but theyre not entirely comfortable. Served with roasted almonds and olives, paprika and ginger. Nice. Its the difference annoys them cherie he smells the food. Or is a burden. Anthony like anywhere else it did, and it frustrates in the arab world, eating with them. Some people have to leave home your hands, always the right one, is proper dining etiquette. To find their home. Im one of those people. Whereas i didnt feel at home in man this is special spinach. The country i was born in at all but here i feel okay. I feel very, very happy here. Anthony its a wild spinach that grows in the mountains . Man yes. There is indeed something anthony bakoula is chopped special about this place. Mountain spinach, garlic, cilantro, hot and black peppers burroughs described the native finished with lemon and olive quarter of tangier as a maze of oil. Sunless twisting streets filled with blind alleys. Anthony oh, its delicious. Man yes. Its smell was particularly bachir i heard you have the notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seared meat and greatest taste for food in the world, man. Anthony i love good food. Sewage. [ laughter ] bachir yeah. Tangier, before anything else, anthony after dinner, some is essentially a port city, with all the things that fruit, some mint tea and let the music begin. Traditionally come with port for centuries, the master cities. Musicians of jajouka have been its situated at the choke point the musical choice of the royal between the Atlantic Ocean and families of morocco. The mediterranean sea. The moroccan coast is a rich excused by the countrys rulers fishing ground and a lot of from manual labor to devote people make their living from themselves to musical training. The sea. Onshore they use a method called sentul fishing, where weighted nets basically drag fish across the bottom of the sea. Some of that fish, the good stuff, anyway, ends up here. The saveur de poisson, or restaurant populare or popeyes. The place has a lot of names, but locals and expats alike who have been coming here for years say it has some of the best tagine in town. Anthony their powerful style of sufi trance music has inspired many musical seekers, the chef and owner sources a lot of his stuff and produce and the including, most notably perhaps, paul bowles, who wrote about and hes real proud of them. Them and recorded them and the back room is dedicated to sorting and drying various herbs which he blends into a secret spread the word. Mix that he claims has all sorts brian jones was here and recorded the pipes of pan at of healthful and bonnerinspiring benefits. Jajouka with these musicians. If every dish i have been told the word spread and the master musicians have ended up being featured on albums by over the years would make me maceo parker, Ornette Coleman strong worked, i would have a and the rolling stones. Permanent pup tent going on down, there so i take all of that with a grain of salt. Hi. Hello. His son delivers the food. It all starts with fresh olives, anthony for years, if you theyre in season now and were a rock god, you had to come roasted walnuts. Here. Some warm, very good bread. Dig the crazy percussion and squishy. Strings and pipes that took you to another place. Its intricate, hypnotic, beautiful. And if youre in the right uh, oh, yeah, and you get in stuff frame of mind, mesmerizing. Just go together. Everybody gets it. A pulpy puree of figs, raisins, strawberries and full of mohammeds potent herbs and spices. Of course. Now kayak and opentable let you earn travel rewards all night, 24 clock. Yeah, yeah, i get it. Every time you dine. Its supposed to make me more manly. Earn points with each restaurant reservation on opentable you know what . And redeem them for hotel discounts on kayak. Im eating. Get started at kayak. Com diningrewards. Lets not talk about that, okay sunshine . What is a tagine, anyway . Its an original moroccan stew that can include meat, vegetables or ship. Tonight, baby shark, calamari and monk fish with fresh mountain tan spinach slowly cooked over charcoal the domed top is supposed to force the condensation back in to the dish and keep it moist and tender. Thats delicious. I think its the greens and the aromatics and the herbs, i have no idea what they are. Never had anything like it. Tangier version of farm to table. Hi. Wow. Whats that . Thank you. And a whole turbo, brushed with olive oil, salt and pepper and some coriander, then grilled perfectly over the coals. Cuddled up next to the fish, tiny shark kabobs. Cute. Wow, spectacular. Good value. All of this for 20 bucks . Im not really a, i thought wall street guy. Ns. Good value. I thought we did a pretty good job on mr. Fish. Whats the hesitation . Eh, it just feels too complicated, you know . 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Its the only one fda approved anthony anyone who comes to tangier inevitably ends up lost to temporarily make frown lines, crows feet and forehead lines look better. In the old part of the city. The effects of botox® cosmetic the medina is just what you want it to be. May spread hours to weeks after injection, causing serious symptoms. The ancient world residing just alert your doctor right away as difficulty swallowing, speaking, breathing, eye problems, or muscle weakness next to and around the new one. May be a sign of a lifethreatening condition. You can walk around inside the do not receive botox® cosmetic movie in your head, play the if you have a skin infection. Bogey character you never were, side effects may include allergic reactions, injection site pain, headache, all against an alltoowilling, alltoogenuine backdrop. Eyebrow, eyelid drooping and eyelid swelling. Tell your doctor about your medical history, muscle or nerve conditions, and medications ordinarily just about the last thing in the world id be interested in doing is including botulinum toxins antiquing. As these may increase the risk of serious side effects. But buried in the network of twisting narrow streets of the so, give that just saw a puppy look old city is boutique majid. Owned and operated and and whatever that look is. Look like you with fewer lines. Own your look personally curated by this man, abdelmajid rais el fenni. Hello. With the one and only botox® cosmetic. Abdelmajid how are you . Anthony and hes one interesting guy. Thank you. Abdelmajid come on in. Anthony when he was a little kid back in the 60s, majid left his hometown of fez and came here where hed earn a few dirham a night emptying ashtrays at the wild and extravagant parties being thrown here by wealthy expats. He saw what these people would buy for themselves and how they decorate their homes and started to look around for himself, scoring, then reselling art and antiques. Wow. It became something of an obsession. Now his artifacts from morocco and all across Northern Africa are bought by collectors from all over the world. Carpets, antiques, wood carvings, jewelry and old doors. Wow, these are incredibly beautiful. Tell me about that. Abdelmajid amber, coral, shells. These used to be currency, these shells. Anthony how old is this . Abdelmajid this is, uh, early 20s, late 19th. The amber is millions of years old. Anthony how much are you selling this piece for . Abdelmajid this is priced by, by weight. Anthony by weight . Abdelmajid its quite a heavy piece, this one. 429 grams. So it comes like, uh, 42,000 dirhams. In tangier, i lived in one room in the native quarter. Anthony so thats how much in dollars . Abdelmajid like, uh, like almost 5,000, 4,500. Anthony about 5,000. I have not taken a bath in a abdelmajid yeah. Almost. Anthony shall we look at year nor changed my clothes or another floor . Abdelmajid oh yes, follow removed them, except to stick a me. Needle every hour in the fibrous yeah, there is a nice collection of, uh, things from the sahara. Anthony so you travel a lot . Gray wooden flesh of terminal abdelmajid little bit. Not like you. [ laughter ] addiction. I never cleaned or dusted the room. Anthony oh, this is, uh, for empty ampoule boxes and garbage pounding piled up to the ceiling. Abdelmajid yes, yes, this is light and water long since turned off for nonpayment. From the gond tribe from mali. Anthony how much will this sell for, do you think . Abdelmajid around 300. Anthony really . I did absolutely nothing. For this . I could look at the end of my shoe for eight hours. Thats very reasonable. Abdelmajid yes. I was only roused to action when anthony ill be buying that. The hourglass of junk ran out. Thats going to be an old friend. Abdelmajid also, memory of tangier. Anthony and a memory of tangier as well. Majid suggests lunch at andalus, the words of William Seward burroughs, one of my heroes. A localsonly place nearby. He came to tangier in 1953, shortly after shooting his wife anthony as a moroccan, so to death in a drunken accident in mexico city. Many westerners who come to tangier come with a romantic notion of a tangier they read he was a heroin addict, a about in books. Homosexual and an inspiration to do people have a realistic expectation when they come here . Are they looking for morocco or those protohipsters who became are they looking for this phantasm . Abdelmajid no, no. It is a phantasm. Known as the beats. It is. When you get here, you, uh, if you know morocco, you feel that youre in morocco, but youre not. Theres a lot of mediterranean attached to this town. He was a somewhat stuffy, and also the history, people welldressed st. Louis son of a hear a story about tangier that good family gone wrong. It was. He was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole like when i first came in th